South Carolina Coast - Beaufort, Kiawah Island, & Charleston

[giradman]

Kiawah Island - Relaxing Vacation Spot!

Kiawah Island is just a 30 min drive south of Charleston - Susan and I have been visiting since 1984 - the luxury hotel on the island is called The Sanctuary - quite expensive, so we usually rent a lagoon 2-bedroom condo near the hotel, which has several fine restaurants (more later) - some more history quoted below from the link.

Relaxing in the condo or on the porch looking out at the lagoon is peaceful OR there are plenty of activities, including swimming (ocean is nearby and an easy walk), beach walking, golf (7 outstanding courses, including the famous Ocean Course where major pro tournaments are held), water activities, walks and cycling, nature tours of all types. About 700 alligators live on the island (more info HERE).

Pics below include maps of the island - real estate is plentiful and in all sizes and price ranges, purchase or rental - our present condo is in Turtle Cove on a lagoon surrounded by other buildings (4 condos per structure) - views of our rental condo - AND this afternoon we had a visitor in our lagoon (last pic) - more to come! Dave

Kiawah is a sea island, or barrier island, on the Atlantic coast of the United States. Located 25 miles (40 km) southwest of Charleston, South Carolina, it is primarily a public beach and golf resort—the Kiawah Island Golf Resort—with spacious villas, beaches, large and acclaimed golf courses, and other attractions. As of the 2010 census, Kiawah Island's population was 1,626, up from 1,163 at the 2000 census. The island is part of the Charleston-North Charleston-Summerville metropolitan area. Kiawah was named for the Kiawah Indians who were led by their head chieftain or cassique. In the year 1670, the cassique of the Kiawah led English colonists to settle at Charlestowne Landing.

Long held by the Vanderhorst family, Kiawah Island was purchased by C.C. Royal in 1950 for logging and timber; in 1974 Royal's heirs sold the island to Kuwait Investment Corporation; soon after, a thorough environmental survey is conducted, and a master plan for Kiawah's development was produced. Two years later, in 1976, real estate sales commenced and the Cougar Point golf course was opened. The 1980s saw the opening of two of the seven golf courses associated with Kiawah-Turtle Point in 1981 and Osprey Point in 1988. 1988 also saw all resort assets and amenities, along with Kiawah's undeveloped lands purchased by the development group, Kiawah Resort Associates (KRA), owned by Charles P. Darby III and Patrick W. McKinney, et al.

.

 

[scifan57]

Kiawah Island - Relaxing Vacation Spot!

Kiawah Island is just a 30 min drive south of Charleston - Susan and I have been visiting since 1984 - the luxury hotel on the island is called The Sanctuary - quite expensive, so we usually rent a lagoon 2-bedroom condo near the hotel, which has several fine restaurants (more later) - some more history quoted below from the link.

Relaxing in the condo or on the porch looking out at the lagoon is peaceful OR there are plenty of activities, including swimming (ocean is nearby and an easy walk), beach walking, golf (7 outstanding courses, including the famous Ocean Course where major pro tournaments are held), water activities, walks and cycling, nature tours of all types. About 700 alligators live on the island (more info HERE).

Pics below include maps of the island - real estate is plentiful and in all sizes and price ranges, purchase or rental - our present condo is in Turtle Cove on a lagoon surrounded by other buildings (4 condos per structure) - views of our rental condo - AND this afternoon we had a visitor in our lagoon (last pic) - more to come! Dave




.
View attachment 81776 View attachment 81777 View attachment 81778 View attachment 81779 View attachment 81780 View attachment 81781 View attachment 81782 View attachment 81783

Some great views there! Can the condos be rented for longer times such as by the www or month?
One thing I"ll never see anywhere near my house is an alligator.

 

[giradman]

Some great views there! Can the condos be rented for longer times such as by the www or month?
One thing I"ll never see anywhere near my house is an alligator.

Sure, we've stayed in a condo on Kiawah for 4-5 days, so I'm sure longer rentals are available; also, even private houses can be rented which would be nice for 2-3 couples w/ kids to split the cost.

Alligators extend into the southern portion of North Carolina around Wilmington which we visit annually (Wrightsville Beach) - possibly w/ 'global warming', their range may go even further north (talking about decades)? The one I saw today was going up & down the lagoon in front of the porch and stopped at one end near our place, where I took the pic (obviously w/ the zoom feature of my camera - the rule is to be about 40+ ft from an alligator - I was a little closer). Dave

 

[giradman]

Walk to the beach on Kiawah Island

On our first full day on the island, we relaxed in the morning - in the afternoon we took a walk from our condo to the beach near the Sanctuary Hotel and then back - nice couple of hours and counted as my exercise day -

The last holes of the Turtle Point Golf Course where on our route to the ocean, lined by lagoons, tropical vegetation, and housing of various types - very pleasant walk. A boardwalk led us to the beach near the hotel - on our way back we saw more of the golf course - pics below w/ a great panoramic shot of Susan.

Also and sadly, we crossed a bridge well known to us from previous trips that had an Osprey nest in a dead tree - nothing alive was evident this time - 4 years ago, I took a pic of the same tree w/ the parent Ospreys flying overhead and the babies popping up from the nest - seems that many of the branches are missing (probably storm damage) - before and current pics at the end below. Dave
.

 

[giradman]

Kiawah River - Dolphin Tour

On our second morning, we took the 90 min dolphin tour - the boat is small (see first pic) because at low tides (true in the morning), water depth might be only 3-4 ft - the weather was great and surrounding views spectacular - a lot of oyster beds exposed and birds of all types feeding - about a dozen dolphins live in the river; summer visitors include fish, sharks, and manatees, migrating up from Florida - manatees that fail to leave late in the year are flown back south via helicopter.

A lot of pics below of some of the shore scenes, wildlife, and about 4-5 dolphin sightings - Dave
.

 

[giradman]

Kiawah Island - Food Options?

Eating on Kiawah Island or nearby off-island locales offers many options from inexpensive places, in condo cooking, and expensive restaurants - we've done all over the decades but for our 3 nights decided to splurge (see options below w/ pics). First night @ Jasmine Porch in the Sanctuary - shared a dozen oysters from New England (excellent!); Susan had the scallops & I the 'fresh catch' (halibut).

Second night, we took a shuttle to the Ocean Course, far east end of the island and site of a number of major golf tournaments (see aerial map w/ my additions) - probably our favorite place - sat near the window looking out at the finishing 18th hole (views below); ate at the Atlantic Room - again we started w/ oysters and both of us had the seafood stew (described on the menu as: roasted Winter Squash and Shellfish Broth, Local Fish, Shrimp, Mussels, Clams, Crab, Crawfish, Boudin, Sage Toast).

Last night we returned to The Sanctuary to dine at The Ocean Room - started w/ local oysters (again delicious) - Susan decided to go w/ a filet mignon which she enjoyed - I had the braised octopus dish and loved (rarely a choice around our parts - described as: Scallop Mousse Agnolotti, Butternut Squash Puree, Squid Ink Sauce, Aged Feta, Frill Mustard) - for dessert we shared the Sous Bois (Bourbon Cream Puffs, Pistachio “Moss” Cake, Hazelnut-Milk Chocolate Cream, Apricot Gelee, Peach, Crystalized Hazelnut), which was cute, unique and delicious, along w/ some great French press decaf coffee.

NOW - one or a family can certainly eat much cheaper as desired - one off-island choice is Freshfields Village, a shopper's delight - restaurants, shops, and market w/ plenty of pre-made goodies, including sushi, and a LOT of seafood and meats to cook in, if desired. Also off-island is the Bohicket Marina & Market w/ a number of restaurants and shops. Dave
.

 

[giradman]

H.L. Hunley - Civil War Confederate Submarine - Introduction

Yesterday, we left Kiawah Island to visit the Warren Lasch Conservation Center located in North Charleston. The recovered H.L. Hunley, which was found in 1995 and raised in 2000 is located there undergoing restoration and investigation, now an 18-year endeavor (in 2 years or so a permanent place for display will be chosen likely in the Charleston area).

The H.L. Hunley was the last of a number 'submarines' developed by the Conferderacy from 1862 to 1864 - the first 2 practice tests were unsuccessful killing most of the men on board, including Horace L. Hunley on the second voyage - the submarine was renamed after him; on the third and final voyage, a torpedo was place on the hull of the USS Housatonic, which exploded and sank - the FIRST successful submarine attack in combat, however, the entire 8 man crew was lost - not until 50 years later was submarine warfare seen again, i.e. in WW I (see quotes below from link above for more information).

The Warren Lasch Center has a wonderful exhibit space, tours, and a gift shop - I took a lot of pics w/o my flash, so not great but should show its organization. I'll need 3 posts for completion - the next will be about the tour w/ pics of the actual Hunley; the final post will be about the lost crew and the amazing research performed on their identification, physical facial appearances, and final resting place. Dave

H. L. Hunley, often referred to as Hunley, was a submarine of the Confederate States of America that played a small part in the American Civil War. Hunley demonstrated the advantages and the dangers of undersea warfare. She was the first combat submarine to sink a warship (USS Housatonic), although Hunley was not completely submerged and, following her successful attack, was lost along with her crew before she could return to base. The Confederacy lost 21 crewmen in three sinkings of Hunley during her short career. She was named for her inventor, Horace Lawson Hunley, shortly after she was taken into government service under the control of the Confederate States Army at Charleston, South Carolina.

Hunley, nearly 40 feet (12 m) long, was built at Mobile, Alabama, and launched in July 1863. She was then shipped by rail on August 12, 1863, to Charleston. Hunley (then referred to as the "fish boat", the "fish torpedo boat", or the "porpoise") sank on August 29, 1863, during a test run, killing five members of her crew. She sank again on October 15, 1863, killing all eight of her second crew, including Horace Hunley himself, who was aboard at the time, even though he was not a member of the Confederate military. Both times Hunley was raised and returned to service.

On February 17, 1864, Hunley attacked and sank the 1,240-displacement ton United States Navy screw sloop-of-war USS Housatonic, which had been on Union blockade-duty in Charleston's outer harbor. The Hunley did not survive the attack and also sank, taking with her all eight members of her third crew, and was lost. Finally located in 1995, Hunley was raised in 2000 and is on display in North Charleston, South Carolina, at the Warren Lasch Conservation Center on the Cooper River. Examination, in 2012, of recovered Hunley artifacts suggests that the submarine was as close as 20 feet (6 meters) to her target, Housatonic, when her deployed torpedo exploded.

.

 

[scifan57]

The Hunley was the first embodiment of the essentials of the modern submarine.

 

[giradman]

H.L. Hunley - Civil War Confederate Submarine - Tour

Tours of the conservation area are available on the weekends - tickets can be ordered online (see quote below from HERE), phone, or on entrance. Excellent guides give the tour w/ a thorough discussion of the Hunley - the submarine is in a submersion tank of a caustic solution (see pics below); interpretive exhibits are on view - tours last about 40 minutes - the last two pics below are a working duplication of part of the ship - one can sit in a seat and crank away!

In 1864, the H.L. Hunley became the first submarine to sink an enemy warship. Unfortunately, before she could return home, the sub disappeared with her eight-man crew off Sullivan's Island, S.C. Her fate was a mystery until she was discovered in 1995 by a diving expedition led by author Clive Cussler. Five years later, the vessel was lifted from the ocean floor and brought to the Warren Lasch Conservation Center in North Charleston, S.C. where a team of scientists are working to conserve the historic submarine for future generations. The Warren Lasch Conservation Center is a working lab, so Friends of The Hunley can only conduct tours on the weekends. Tickets for this historic event are on sale now! For more information about the H.L. Hunley, please call the Friends of The Hunley at 843-743-4865. To order tickets by phone call 1-877-448-6539.

.

 

[giradman]

The Hunley was the first embodiment of the essentials of the modern submarine.

Well, the Hunley did not really completely submerge - the conning towers were topped w/ hatches (size of a manhole cover) for entry/exit and also had viewing ports, along w/ a snorkel box with two tubes that could be raised and lowered (see pic below). Amazing the development in 50 years w/ the German U-Boat of WW 1 (second pic); apparently the Germans had been working on subs since the 1850s.

I've been inside a number of WW II submarines and one nuclear sub but no earlier German ones from WW I - plus, Susan refuses to go into subs anymore - Dave
.

 

[suenc]

Susan & I are on our first major car trip of the year (she needed cataract surgery which occupied much of March, our usually trip to Florida eliminated) - so, we are currently in Beaufort, South Carolina for 3 nights and then Kiawah Island for another 3 nights - we will not be going into Charleston, a place of many visits over the decades, so the discussion for now will relate mainly to the first two places in the heading - I'm surprised in looking back over my travelogues that Kiawah Island & Charleston have not been discussed in depth, so hopefully this beginning posting will correct some of that absence.

Beaufort, South Carolina is the second oldest city in the state after Charleston (late 1600s vs. 1711 - see quote) - from our home about a 5 hr drive (see first pic below) - the town is located among dozens of sea and barrier islands, located on Port Royal island which also has a town of the same name (second pic) - see description below w/ link above; the historic section of 19th century architecture is large (and occupies much of the aerial view shown); there are many local attractions and great history and seafood (later) - this is probably our 4th visit but all others were 'day trips' - this time we are staying for 3 nights at the Beaufort Inn (also shown) which is just a block from Bay Street, the main street near the water and location of plenty of restaurants and shops, especially those related to art, antiques, etc.

Much more to follow, so just an amuse-bouche - Dave


.
View attachment 81666 View attachment 81667 View attachment 81668 View attachment 81669 View attachment 81670 View attachment 81671

Wonderful spring trip! History, ocean, antebellum houses, subtropical island--not to mention local oysters

 

[suenc]

Beaufort Restaurants - Great Seafood!

Well, we had three excellent dinners, a lunch, and oysters daily! For those who may be traveling around Beaufort, SC, then these three can be recommended (although plenty more were on our list - but these were just a few blocks from the Beaufort Inn and two on the waterfront: Saltus River Grill, Emily's Restaurant & Tapas Bar, and Plums - the first night at the Saltus River Grill - started out w/ local oysters from Lady's Island (see map in first post, if interested), briny and delicious - I had the fresh catch of the day and Susan an excellent shrimp and grits.

Our second night, tried Emily's, just a block from the Beaufort Inn - I had the fresh catch halibut and Susan three tapas dishes - skipped dessert and went back to the Saltus Grill for another dozen Lady Island oysters on the half shell! After our carriage ride, we had lunch @ Plums and shared a shellfish tower, oysters & shrimp - our final dinner was a return to the Saltus Grill - we again started w/ local oysters, this time from St. Helena Island, which is on the way to Hunting Island - I had sushi which was outstanding!

SO, if visiting the area a lover of seafood, then will not be disappointed. Dave
.
View attachment 81737 View attachment 81738 View attachment 81739 View attachment 81740

Yum! (Seafood in mid-NC is iffy)

 

[giradman]

H.L. Hunley - Civil War Confederate Submarine - Crew, Investigation, & Burial

The H.L. Hunley crew consisted of 8 members, including the 'captain', Lt. George Dixon - most were in their 20s & 30s w/ several over 40 years of age; their heights are shown below. They died on February 17, 1864 after sinking the USS Housatonic, likely from suffocation and/or drowning. All eight bodies were in the submarine and have been extensively studied by a wide variety of scientists, including forensic anthropologists; DNA analysis was used - the facial reconstructions are amazing (lots of pics below).

On April 17, 2004, the eight men were interred in the Magnolia Cemetery, just off Meeting Street - the ceremony is described below and must have been quite a gathering. If a Civil War buff like me, this is a MUST visit if in the area - Susan really enjoyed - in the gift shop, we bought a couple of tee-shirts, a magnet for our refrigerator, and a 2014 book on the Hunley and its conservation called Sea of Darkness by Brian Hicks (recommended by our guide who is not a relative - ) - Dave

P.S. first pic below are the names of the first two trial crews of the Porpoise (first name of the ship) which sank, killing 13 of 16 men.

On April 17, 2004 the remains of the crew were laid to rest at Magnolia Cemetery in Charleston, South Carolina. Tens of thousands of people attended including some 6,000 reenactors and 4,000 civilians wearing period clothing. Color guards from all five branches of the U.S. armed forces—wearing modern uniforms—were also in the procession. Even though only two of the crew were from Confederate States all were buried with full Confederate honors, including being buried with the 2nd Confederate national flag, known as the Stainless Banner. (Source)

.

 

[scifan57]

H.L. Hunley - Civil War Confederate Submarine - Crew, Investigation, & Burial

The H.L. Hunley crew consisted of 8 members, including the 'captain', Lt. George Dixon - most were in their 20s & 30s w/ several over 40 years of age; their heights are shown below. They died on February 17, 1864 after sinking the USS Housatonic, likely from suffocation and/or drowning. All eight bodies were in the submarine and have been extensively studied by a wide variety of scientists, including forensic anthropologists; DNA analysis was used - the facial reconstructions are amazing (lots of pics below).

On April 17, 2004, the eight men were interred in the Magnolia Cemetery, just off Meeting Street - the ceremony is described below and must have been quite a gathering. If a Civil War buff like me, this is a MUST visit if in the area - Susan really enjoyed - in the gift shop, we bought a couple of tee-shirts, a magnet for our refrigerator, and a 2014 book on the Hunley and its conservation called Sea of Darkness by Brian Hicks (recommended by our guide who is not a relative - ) - Dave

P.S. first pic below are the names of the first two trial crews of the Porpoise (first name of the ship) which sank, killing 13 of 16 men.


.
View attachment 81871 View attachment 81872 View attachment 81873 View attachment 81874 View attachment 81875 View attachment 81876 View attachment 81877 View attachment 81878 View attachment 81879 View attachment 81880 View attachment 81881 View attachment 81882 View attachment 81883 View attachment 81884

The Hunley had diving planes and ballast tanks. The method of attack employed was used because the self propelled submarine torpedo and the submarine periscope had not yet been invented. We'll never know for sure but it's possible that proximity to the explosion may have contributed to the loss of the Hunley with her crew.

Have you seen the U Boat in Chicago? I saw it in 2012, shortly after it was moved into it's current underground bunker and restored.

 

[giradman]

The Hunley had diving planes and ballast tanks. The method of attack employed was used because the self propelled submarine torpedo and the submarine periscope had not yet been invented. We'll never know for sure but it's possible that proximity to the explosion may have contributed to the loss of the Hunley with her crew.

Have you seen the U Boat in Chicago? I saw it in 2012, shortly after it was moved into it's current underground bunker and restored.

Much of the Hunley's disappearance was discussed on the tour and also in many of the exhibits - the impact of the explosion remains speculative - the crew was likely trapped in the ship and likely suffocated from lack of air and/or drowned - as mentioned, I bought the book shown below and will start to read - the reviews are excellent. As to the U-Boat in Chicago, don't remember a visit but have not been there in about 8 years or so. Dave
.