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Hilton Head Island - Daufuskie Island - Savannah

giradman

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Well, Susan & I just returned from a 5-night trip on the southern South Carolina coast on Hilton Head Island, about a 5-hour drive from home - now, I could have attached this to my 'Carolina Thread' but the island is on the Georgia border and near Savannah, another beautiful coastal historic city, so maybe this trip warrants a new thread?

We've been to Hilton Head Island (HHI) numerous times and I ran three medical meetings there back in the 1980s and early '90s, thus a popular place to visit - HHI is one of the largest barrier islands along the Atlantic coast and has nearly 40,000 residents (of course, this greatly increases w/ the inflow of tourists in the popular summer months) - the history of the island is complex, so for those interested check HERE.

The first two images below show the geographic location of the island on the southern coast of South Carolina near the Georgia border - the first a larger map has a red arrow for the turn-off from I-95 to HW 278 which transports you across the intracoastal waterway onto the island; the next map shows a larger image of the island - other arrows show upcoming posts, i.e. Bluffton (brown), Savannah (green), & Daufuskie Island (yellow) - we stayed @ the Omni Resort (blue arrow) on the ocean.

The island is divided mainly into multiple 'Plantations', each a complex of a hotel or two plus condos and other residential areas, so numerous choices (as shown on the third image - we stayed on Palmetto Dunes - I use to run my radiology meeting from the Westin Hotel on the Port Royal Plantation). Probably one of the most recognizable images of this island is the Lighthouse in Harbour Town on the Sea Pines Plantation which occupies the most southern portion of the island and has the golf course that hosts an annual PGA golf event.

The final two images show the Omni Resort where we stayed for 5 nights w/ a wonderful oceanfront suite on the 4th floor - the SC beaches are some of the most beautiful in the USA, smooth sand and extensive - Susan loves dipping her feet into the ocean (she grew up in New Jersey and the shore was second nature to her).

Upcoming posts will be numerous and include some of those colored arrows on the first map and possibly some other areas that we've visited over the years but not on this trip - again, my main purpose for these travelogues is to help those who may be wanting to come to this wonderful part of the USA, although I hope others will enjoy the commentary - may take me a week or more to complete this thread but have patience, if you're interested - Dave :)

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scifan57

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Well, Susan & I just returned from a 5-night trip on the southern South Carolina coast on Hilton Head Island, about a 5-hour drive from home - now, I could have attached this to my 'Carolina Thread' but the island is on the Georgia border and near Savannah, another beautiful coastal historic city, so maybe this trip warrants a new thread?

We've been to Hilton Head Island (HHI) numerous times and I ran three medical meetings there back in the 1980s and early '90s, thus a popular place to visit - HHI is one of the largest barrier islands along the Atlantic coast and has nearly 40,000 residents (of course, this greatly increases w/ the inflow of tourists in the popular summer months) - the history of the island is complex, so for those interested check HERE.

The first two images below show the geographic location of the island on the southern coast of South Carolina near the Georgia border - the first a larger map has a red arrow for the turn-off from I-95 to HW 278 which transports you across the intracoastal waterway onto the island; the next map shows a larger image of the island - other arrows show upcoming posts, i.e. Bluffon (brown), Savannah (green), & Daufuskie Island (yellow) - we stayed @ the Omni Resort (blue arrow) on the ocean.

The island is divided mainly into multiple 'Plantations', each a complex of a hotel or two plus condos and other residential areas, so numerous choices (as shown on the third image - we stayed on Palmetto Dunes - I use to run my radiology meeting from the Westin Hotel on the Port Royal Plantation). Probably one of the most recognizable images of this island is the Lighthouse in Harbour Town on the Sea Pines Plantation which occupies the most southern portion of the island and has the golf course that hosts an annual PGA golf event.

The final two images show the Omni Resort where we stayed for 5 nights w/ a wonderful oceanfront suite on the 4th floor - the SC beaches are some of the most beautiful in the USA, smooth sand and extensive - Susan loves dipping her feet into the ocean (she grew up in New Jersey and the shore was second nature to her).

Upcoming posts will be numerous and include some of those colored arrows on the first map and possibly some other areas that we've visited over the years but not on this trip - again, my main purpose for these travelogues is to help those who may be wanting to come to this wonderful part of the USA, although I hope others will enjoy the commentary - may take me a week or more to complete this thread but have patience, if you're interested - Dave :)

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Thanks for another interesting travel story. Posts like this bring the world to people who can't travel there in person.
 
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giradman

giradman

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Thanks for another interesting travel story. Posts like this bring the world to people whi can't travel there in person.

Thanks Scifan.. - you are always one of the first to comment on these travelogues of mine - plenty to talk about on this one if I add our multiple other trips to the area - I'll see what comes up! Dave :)
 

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Thanks Scifan.. - you are always one of the first to comment on these travelogues of mine - plenty to talk about on this one if I add our multiple other trips to the area - I'll see what comes up! Dave :)
May I get in quickly too, as timing really does depend on the reader's location in the world;)
Agree with scifan, another very interesting exposition of the lovely sights in your region of country. Your travelogues, accompanied with those photos, are great!
Andrew


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Hilton Head Island - Resorts, Outdoor Activities, & Great Natural Beauty

For a start, just a little information on the island - introductory history quoted below from HERE - first pic below an aerial map of the entire island w/ several bridges (white arrows) crossing the intracoastal waterway for access via HW 278, shown on maps in the OP. The highway crosses the southern tip of the Pinckney Wildlife Refuge (PWR). Broad Creek nearly splits the island in half (and may w/ the next major hurricane!) and enters Calibogue Sound (pink arrow) - we took a speed boat from a marina on the creek to Daufuskie Island, which will be a topic of one or several future posts. The May River entrance is marked w/ the yellow arrow and leads to the small town of Bluffton, which will be the next post.

There are numerous living accommodations available from luxury hotels, like the Omni where we stayed this time, but just another one shown below is the Westin Resort in the Port Royal Plantation toward the northern Atlantic side of the island - that's where I held three radiology meetings back in the '80s & early '90s. Of course, there are many private homes and other rental options, such as condos of various sizes. Outdoor activities are abundant and include cycling, walking (plenty of paved paths for both), numerous golf courses, tennis, nature and water excursions - plenty of boat rides, canoeing, kayaking in the marsh areas - wildlife is abundant and bird watching is a favorite. As in my travelogue on Kiawah Island near Charleston, many alligators live there and may greet you at the front door, as in the pic below - YIKES! (that was a 12 footer).

The Coastal Discovery Museum is a fun place to visit - a small museum w/ panel exhibits of the island's history and the types of flora & fauna to be found, including nearly a half dozen poisonous snakes! Buildings remain from the previous community there along w/ boardwalks into the salt marshes (as shown below) - the museum sponsors daily events - we did the walk around the grounds w/ a guide who told us more of the history of the island and the property, plus a LOT of information on the plants and animals; on other days, trips are available to several of the wildlife refuges and to Port Royal near Beaufort, both beautiful and historically interesting visits.

Finally, as mentioned for you golfers, there are an abundant number of choices in the area, including the famous Harbour Town Golf Links (iconic 18th hole pictured below w/ the lighthouse in the background); site of the annual PGA Heritage golf tournament which was ending on our arrival - winner in a playoff was Jim Furyk - Dave :)

Hilton Head Island, sometimes referred to as simply Hilton Head, is a Low country resort town located on an island of the same name in Beaufort County, South Carolina, United States. It is 20 miles (32 km) northeast of Savannah, Georgia, and 95 miles (153 km) southwest of Charleston. The island is named after Captain William Hilton, who in 1663, identified a headland near the entrance to Port Royal Sound, which he named "Hilton's Head" after himself. The island features 12 miles (19 km) of beachfront on the Atlantic Ocean and is a popular vacation destination. In 2004, an estimated 2.25 million visitors pumped more than $1.5 billion into the local economy.[3] The year-round population was 37,099 at the 2010 census,[4] although during the peak of summer vacation season the population can swell to 275,000.[5] Over the past decade, the island's population growth rate was 32%.[6] Hilton Head Island is a primary city within the Hilton Head Island-Bluffton-Beaufort, SC Metropolitan Statistical Area.
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I was surprised at the variety of things to do, as previously we mostly hung around the hotels when Dave had meetings. I was also surprised at how large the island was--a lot of shopping centers on the main road, but tropical/scenic once you go inside the plantation complexes. Food was good, most of it pretty fresh;
As usual we shared a few dozen oysters, the last round direct from the local May River.
 

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I wouldn't want to run into that alligator at my front door. Are they common in that area?
 
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giradman

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I wouldn't want to run into that alligator at my front door. Are they common in that area?

Alligators extend into southern North Carolina, our state - I've seen them in the Wilmington area - on Kiawah Island (which I've written about in another travelogue) near Charleston, there are an estimated 600-700 alligators - we always see several when visiting that island.

Hilton Head Island is much larger that Kiawah and ponds, lagoons, waterways are abundant - there are an estimated 2000-4000 alligators on Hilton Head (Source - an interesting read!). Now, we did not see a gator on our recent trip to the island, but I wasn't looking hard! ;)

Just did a little more searching on the web for some more Hilton Head gator pics - found the 4 below - first one of a gator enjoying a blue crab and last one of a captured alligator who apparently showed up at a couple's front door on the island, and scarred the lady of the house when she went to check for mail! Dave :)

P.S. in 1984, I held our first summer radiology meeting on Kiawah Island and was playing a round of golf w/ my father-in-law; on one hole, I sliced my ball near the bank of a lagoon and as I was approaching, an alligator emerged for some sun and rested near my golf ball - WELL, I just dropped a new one on the other side of the fairway (did not take a penalty stroke - ;)).
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scifan57

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I guess alligators are considered a normal hazard on the golf course at Hilton Head. They've sure got that last one tied up good.
 
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I was surprised at the variety of things to do, as previously we mostly hung around the hotels when Dave had meetings. I was also surprised at how large the island was--a lot of shopping centers on the main road, but tropical/scenic once you go inside the plantation complexes. Food was good, most of it pretty fresh;
As usual we shared a few dozen oysters, the last round direct from the local May River.

Well, Susan chimed in about the food which is quite good and a LOT of restaurant choices - for our first night we ate @ Ela's Grille in the Shelter Cove marina on Broad Creek (see previous post & maps) - we started w/ oysters on the half shell (two different kinds from New England & Virginia) - I had the grilled swordfish w/ wild rice and small berry salad (click on the links for menus).

For our second night, we ate at Alexander's Seafood Restaurant on the Palmetto Dunes property (a few minutes from our hotel) - again, started w/ Blue Point oysters on the half shell and we both had the stuffed shrimp (shrimp stuffed with scallops and jumbo lump crab, served with garlic parmesan rice and vegetable du jour, finished with a lobster cream sauce) which were delicious; the sides were somewhat bland - this is highly regarded from the reviews but was probably our least favorite restaurant.

Third night, we went to Harbour Town on the Sea Pines Plantation (place w/ the golf course & lighthouse) and ate at the Topside Waterfront Restaurant on the second floor next to the lighthouse w/ spectacular view of the 18th hole, Calibogue Sound, and the marina area - I had the fresh grilled redfish w/ a citrus butter sauce and a choice of sides - picked garlic sautéed spinach & quinoa blend pilaf - one of the BEST fishes that I've had in months! Unfortunately, they were out of oysters, so we split the fried calamari & the gumbo - both superb - I would highly recommend this place for the location, views, ambience, and the superb food! P.S. if you're not staying @ Sea Pines, then a $6 entrance fee.

Fourth night, we did a tour of Daufuskie Island which left from Shelter Cove (more on that later) - on return we were right @ Ela's Grille, so went back for more! Shared another dozen oysters on the half shell, two types again from New England & Virginia (but different locations). I had the blackened yellowfin tuna rare in the preparation shown below - this was just a delicious dish - had wine w/ all of these dinners, and like a Pinot Noir w/ tuna (choose a Russian River one from CA).

Last night on returning from a day trip to Savannah, we stopped in Bluffton (both future posts) and dined at the restaurant which is operated by the family of the Bluffton Oyster Company - we shared a dozen May River oysters, just harvested a few blocks away - LOVE it! I had the blackened snapper w/ a side salad and some nicely flavored red mash potatoes and a few glasses of Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand - quite informal place w/ great service - will return in the future!

My main purpose in this post is for those who may be vacationing in the area - all of these are excellent restaurants - check the links and 'pick & choose' - Dave :)
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Your food stories are just as good as the other stories. It makes me wish I was there so I could visit these restaurants.
 
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Your food stories are just as good as the other stories. It makes me wish I was there so I could visit these restaurants.

Hi Scifan.. - thanks again - Susan & I are foodies and good seafood is our 'go to' treat so visiting the coastal areas in the mid-Atlantic is always a pleasure. Dave :)
 
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Bluffton, South Carolina - Coastal Town on May River

Bluffton, South Carolina is on the way to Savannah, Georgia and is an easy stop - an edited introductory history is quoted below (Source). The map and aerial view below shows the relationship of the town to the May River - HW 46 continues through the area on its way to HW 17A south which will enter Georgia - just under an hour by car to travel from Hilton Head to Savannah.

The Heyward House on Boundary Street (4th pic below) is the historical welcome center and can be toured. Just several blocks away is the May River w/ beautiful views of the waterway, marshes, and other flora & fauna. Along Calhoun Street are multiple art galleries which we spent most of a Sunday afternoon perusing - and were amazed at the talent in the area; a number of the galleries were cooperatives representing numerous artists working in all sorts of artistic genres - Susan bought a beautiful fresh water pearl necklace and I purchased the segmented wood vase shown below from the Maye River Gallery (check the pictures thread for a more thorough description).

Oyster harvesting was a thriving industry in the early 20th century and the historic Bluffton Oyster Company remains the last hand-shucking house in the state of South Carolina. The family runs a restaurant in another section of the town where we ate our last night's dinner (described a few posts above) - we shared a dozen of absolutely delicious May River oysters w/ a kicking horseradish/cocktail sauce - this place will be a return visit in a future trip to Hilton Head. Dave :)

Bluffton is a Lowcountry town in Beaufort County, South Carolina. It is primarily located around U.S. Route 278, between Hilton Head Island and Interstate 95. The town's original one square mile area, now known as Old Town, is situated on a bluff along the May River. The population was counted by the 2010 census at 12,893. Bluffton is the fastest growing municipality in South Carolina with a population over 2,500. Bluffton is the fifth largest municipality in South Carolina by land area. Bluffton is known for its eclectic Old Town district and natural views of the May River. It has been called "the last true coastal village of the South."

Following the Tariff of 1842, Bluffton became a hotbed of separatist sentiment. In 1844 the Bluffton Movement, a protest against federal taxes, gave birth to the secession movement and led South Carolina to be the first state to leave the Union. In the antebellum period Bluffton became a popular location for wealthy merchants and plantation owners. During the Civil War two-thirds of the town was destroyed by fire during the Union's Bluffton Expedition on June 4, 1863.
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Daufuskie Island - Part 1

The Sea Islands are a chain of tidal and barrier islands that extend from Georgetown, South Carolina to Amelia Island near the Florida-Georgia border - there are over 100, many are inhabited, some not, and others nature refuges. Over the years, Susan & I have visited nearly two dozen, mostly the ones that have been developed for tourism, which include Hilton Head & Kiawah Islands.

But one of the most interesting is Daufuskie Island for its fascinating history - an introductory description below (Source). An island first settled by native Americans, i.e. Yemassee Indians, then eventually in the 19th century by plantation owners and their slaves, who were isolated because the white owners were afraid of mosquito borne diseases, such as malaria & yellow fever - a number of crops were tried but around the time of the American Civil War Sea Island Cotton was the cash producer. The war brought tremendous changes to these islands and the 'freed' slaves who populated Daufuskie Island.

Due to their isolation, the predominant black population develop its own culture which became known as Gullah (see 2nd quote below - Source) including a hybrid language of the same name or also Geechee - due to the collapse of the oyster industry in the 20th century (the boll weevil had wipe out the cotton earlier), the Gullah left the island which is now populated mainly by whites.

The aerial views below first show our hotel on the Atlantic Ocean, and the location of the Shelter Cove Marina (where Ela's Restaurant is located) - our tour to Daufuskie Island began there on a small fast boat w/ the guide & two other tourists. The island is southwest of Hilton Head, most quickly reached by boat from Harbour Town - third pic of the marina on Broad Creek; after nearly an hour boat ride, we landed at the County Dock for our tour; we past landmarks, such as the Haig Point Lighthouse (which is said to be haunted!) and ruins of slave quarters made of 'tabby' (kind of like cement w/ oyster shells - a common building material along the Atlantic Coast in previous centuries) - the only transportation to the island is by boat and commercial ferries are popular, such as the one @ Haig Point shown below. MORE to come - Dave :)

Daufuskie Island is a residential "sea island" between Savannah, Georgia and Hilton Head Island, South Carolina about 2.75 miles (4.43 km) offshore. The total island surface is just 8 square miles (21 km2) within the maximum length of 5 miles (8.0 km) and maximum width of 2.5 miles (4.0 km).

Daufuskie has a full-time population of around 250. There are two resorts, a private residential community, and a large undeveloped tract of lands identified as residential property. The island was named a historic district on the National Register of Historic Places due to its Gullah and Civil War history.

The Gullah are the descendants of enslaved Africans who live in the Lowcountry region of the U.S. states of South Carolinaand Georgia, which includes both the coastal plain and the Sea Islands.

Historically, the Gullah region extended from the Cape Fear area on the coast of North Carolina south to the vicinity of Jacksonville on the coast of Florida; but today the Gullah area is confined to the South Carolina and Georgia Lowcountry. The Gullah people and their language are also called Geechee, which some scholars speculate is related to the Ogeechee River near Savannah, Georgia. "Gullah" is a term that was originally used to designate the variety of English spoken by Gullah and Geechee people, but over time it has been used by its speakers to formally refer to their creole language and distinctive ethnic identity as a people. The Georgia communities are distinguished by identifying as either "Saltwater Geechee" or "Freshwater Geechee," depending on their proximity to the coast.

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