Carolina Shore - Ocean, Seafood, History & More!

[suenc]

Cool - I've been to the Fizgard Lighthouse - years ago, we did a British Columbia coastal trip - first flew into Port Hardy at the northern end of Vancouver Island, then took a 2-night large ferry boat (had a tiny cabin but food was excellent) to Prince Rupert (first map below); returned and rented a car at Port Hardy and drove the length of the island to Victoria - stay a few nights and saw the lighthouse and some gardens (also bought a wonderful piece of art in the city); then, a ferry to Vancouver for some more nights (some great sites & food) - finally a flight back home to North Carolina - wonderful trip (probably about 8-9 days). Dave

ADDENDUM: Some more information on the trip above - in Victoria, we stayed across the Inner Harbor and had a great view of the downtown area & the Empress Hotel (shown below on map & pic) - we bought a watercolor painting from an art gallery w/i that hotel by the artist
Robert Kaykaygeesick, Jr. called Visions (pic below from a corner of my den - not good because of the flash - but one that we still enjoy - found the receipt from July 1990, our 20th anniversary) - a little history of the artist given - added attachments.
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I remember only parts of that trip, since I had hurt my back and was in a drug-induced haze. It would be nice to go back sometime and actually see the above mentioned sights. I do remember the ferry--it was like a mini cruise ship.

 

[suenc]

Thanks Scifan.. for the links - I've been reading about NC coastal history for decades and have seen that excellent video before - highly recommended to those who are pirate fans and may be visiting the area. As mentioned before, we have planned a trip to the Beaufort area at the end of next month, and will stay on Atlantic Beach this time (see map & approximate hotel area; also shows the closeness to Beaufort & Moorehead City; and the location of the Cedar Island Ferry to Ocracoke Island).

There are many attractions, but a visit to the North Carolina Maritime Museum will be a must (will be my 3-4 time there) - am curious about the expansion of the Blackbeard exhibit (below just a model of the Queen Anne Revenge) - the wreck of the ship discussed in the video is near the Beaufort Inlet near the end of Atlantic Beach and the location of Ft. Macon State Park w/ Ft. Macon, a civil war brick structure. Will get some new pictures (and look for some older ones from previous trips to Beaufort). Dave
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P.S. last couple of images below - first the Watercraft Center (across the street from the museum) where boat construction, restoration, and even classes can be observed and taken. Finally, I've read many books over the decades on NC coastal history, pirates, etc. - the one below was published in 2000 and starts w/ pirates & Blackbeard, but continues into the Civil War - a nice general fairly encompassing recommendation.
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Peaceful, interesting place. Looking forward to Atlantic Beach, too. Maybe another dinner of bluefish at the Sanitary Fish Market.

 

[giradman]

Peaceful, interesting place. Looking forward to Atlantic Beach, too. Maybe another dinner of bluefish at the Sanitary Fish Market.

Hey - Susan has finally 'chimed in' to this thread! Now I remember her 'back issue' but she did enjoy that BC inner passage cruise and we had a memorable dinner at a Chinese seafood restaurant in Vancouver - our 'fish & lobster' order were brought to the table live, and then cooked - GREAT!

The Sanitary Fish Market (pic below from the '50s - opened in the late 1930s) in Morehead City is on the bridge to Atlantic Beach - Susan enjoys bluefish, SO I hope that it is still offered on the menu (not a popular choice) - I remember in Montauk, Long Island of going out w/ her father to trawl for bluefish - kind of an oily seafood that he liked to smoke and make into a dip. BUT, will be a fun return to a really old-fashioned seafood place on the Carolina coast. More to follow! Dave
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[giradman]

Atlantic Beach - Beaufort - Cape Lookout Lighthouse & More!

Susan and I are on a short 4-night trip to Atlantic Beach, a barrier island near Morehead City/Beaufort, NC - about a 4-hour drive from our home (see the first 2 maps below) - this is kind of a continuation of my latest previous posts about the NC lighthouses - we are staying at a 'modest' place which is quite nice, the DoubleTree Inn w/ an 8th floor oceanfront room (a few pics from the two balconies below) - the beach on the Atlantic Ocean is beautiful and goes for miles in both directions. The weather is 'iffy' throughout our stay - tomorrow, we will try for a boat ride from Harker's Island to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse.

Activities will include a visit to the Pine Knoll Shores Aquarium just down the road (and one of 3 NC aquariums), a return to the NC Maritime Museum in Beaufort (where artifacts from the undersea ongoing archeological investigation of Blackbeard's ship, the Queen Anne Revenge, are kept), a number of boat rides and tours, another return visit to Ft. Macon State Park, and some GREAT seafood eating - if rain interferes, we'll still have a good time! Dave
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[scifan57]

Atlantic Beach - Beaufort - Cape Lookout Lighthouse & More!

Susan and I are on a short 4-night trip to Atlantic Beach, a barrier island near Morehead City/Beaufort, NC - about a 4-hour drive from our home (see the first 2 maps below) - this is kind of a continuation of my latest previous posts about the NC lighthouses - we are staying at a 'modest' place which is quite nice, the DoubleTree Inn w/ an 8th floor oceanfront room (a few pics from the two balconies below) - the beach on the Atlantic Ocean is beautiful and goes for miles in both directions. The weather is 'iffy' throughout our stay - tomorrow, we will try for a boat ride from Harker's Island to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse.

Activities will include a visit to the Pine Knoll Shores Aquarium just down the road (and one of 3 NC aquariums), a return to the NC Maritime Museum in Beaufort (where artifacts from the undersea ongoing archeological investigation of Blackbeard's ship, the Queen Anne Revenge, are kept), a number of boat rides and tours, another return visit to Ft. Macon State Park, and some GREAT seafood eating - if rain interferes, we'll still have a good time! Dave
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It looks like a very nice place to visit and has great views but it seems very exposed to severe storms. Have any hurricanes been through the area?

 

[giradman]

It looks like a very nice place to visit and has great views but it seems very exposed to severe storms. Have any hurricanes been through the area?

Well, the Atlantic coast that we often visit from Virginia to Florida is lined w/ numerous barrier islands which are basically 'sand deposits' - plus, these islands are often densely populated - tropical storms and hurricanes are common and expected occurences - just the 'risk' one needs to take to visit and much less live on these islands. Plus, North Carolina juts out east into the Atlantic Ocean, especially the Outer Banks, so is certainly in danger of being hit by these storms (in one of my last posts, I showed Hatteras Island 'cut in half'); but any of these areas depending on the severity of the storm, duration, and its landfall can affect these coastal USA states. Of course, these types of storms occur in the Gulf Coast and on both sides of Mexico.

The Atlantic Hurricane Season (see quote below) is officially June 1 to the end of November, and peaks in September (but we've been aware of this season for 4+ decades) - see diagram. Of course as you know, these storms/hurricanes are given names (this year's list below - according to the first quote below, Hurricane Earl hit Mexico last month). Because of these frequent and often devastating storms, the area has be nicknamed the Graveyard of the Atlantic (second quote - the museum on Hatteras Island is worth a visit).

As to the tropical systems in the Morehead City area, I did find this Source - just a few facts: 1) Tropical Storm to Hurricane ratio, 56% vs. 44%; 2) Longest gap between 'storms', 8 years (1986-1995); 3) Area is 'brushed or hit' every 1.6 years; and 4) Direct hurricane hits, every 5.3 years. BUT, the people along these coastal areas are resilient and typically rebuild - how global warming will affect these barrier islands in the next few decades will be interesting - but Susan & I will continue to enjoy them for now. Dave

The 2016 Atlantic hurricane season is the current tropical cyclone season in the North Atlantic Ocean, which officially began on June 1 and will end on November 30. This season began nearly five months before the official start, with Hurricane Alex forming in the Northeastern Atlantic in mid-January. Tropical Storm Bonnie followed in late May, which was the first occurrence of two pre-season Atlantic storms since 2012. In June, tropical storms Colin and Danielle became the earliest third and fourth named storms in the Atlantic in recorded history. In August, Hurricane Earl became the deadliest Atlantic storm to strike Mexico since Hurricane Stan. In September, Hurricane Herminebecame the first hurricane to make landfall in Florida since Hurricane Wilma in 2005, while Tropical Storm Julia became the first named storm to form over Florida (Source).

Graveyard of the Atlantic is a nickname of two locations known for numerous shipwrecks: the treacherous waters in the Atlantic Ocean from the entrance to the Chesapeake Bay at Cape Henry south along the coastline to the Outer Banks of Virginia and North Carolina; and around Sable Island, off the coast of central Nova Scotia. Both these hot spots for shipwrecks are due to some of the same reasons. When the arctic Labrador Current and the Gulf stream meet, it causes very rough waters. In some cases, it also causes thick fog which increases danger, especially near Sable Island. The Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum, located in Hatteras Village, focuses on the history of this area and features many artifacts recovered from area shipwrecks (Source).

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[scifan57]

Well, the Atlantic coast that we often visit from Virginia to Florida is lined w/ numerous barrier islands which are basically 'sand deposits' - plus, these islands are often densely populated - tropical storms and hurricanes are common and expected occurences - just the 'risk' one needs to take to visit and much less live on these islands. Plus, North Carolina juts out east into the Atlantic Ocean, especially the Outer Banks, so is certainly in danger of being hit by these storms (in one of my last posts, I showed Hatteras Island 'cut in half'); but any of these areas depending on the severity of the storm, duration, and its landfall can affect these coastal USA states. Of course, these types of storms occur in the Gulf Coast and on both sides of Mexico.

The Atlantic Hurricane Season (see quote below) is officially June 1 to the end of November, and peaks in September (but we've been aware of this season for 4+ decades) - see diagram. Of course as you know, these storms/hurricanes are given names (this year's list below - according to the first quote below, Hurricane Earl hit Mexico last month). Because of these frequent and often devastating storms, the area has be nicknamed the Graveyard of the Atlantic (second quote - the museum on Hatteras Island is worth a visit).

As to the tropical systems in the Morehead City area, I did find this Source - just a few facts: 1) Tropical Storm to Hurricane ratio, 56% vs. 44%; 2) Longest gap between 'storms', 8 years (1986-1995); 3) Area is 'brushed or hit' every 1.6 years; and 4) Direct hurricane hits, every 5.3 years. BUT, the people along these coastal areas are resilient and typically rebuild - how global warming will affect these barrier islands in the next few decades will be interesting - but Susan & I will continue to enjoy them for now. Dave





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Thanks for the information.
If modern development could be kept away from the most dangerous areas, damage and loss of life would be much less when these storms hit. Unfortunately, developers out to make a buck and people looking for the best views without considering the potential dangers won't let that ever happen.

 

[giradman]

Thanks for the information.
If modern development could be kept away from the most dangerous areas, damage and loss of life would be much less when these storms hit. Unfortunately, developers out to make a buck and people looking for the best views without considering the potential dangers won't let that ever happen.

Last night we ate at the Amos Mosquito's Restaurant - I had a freshly caught grilled grouper (line caught by the chef who was fishing 14 miles out to sea on Monday, their day off) that was superb; Susan had shellfish/grouper over pasta (like a bouillabaisse) which I always fear for her because the seafood MUST not be overcooked - well, she was thrilled w/ the dish (first 2 images below of the restaurant - sign & the inside room where we sat) - on the second image notice the view from the windows.

After dinner walking to our car, there was a small wooden pier w/ a viewing area that was beautiful - basically looking back toward Morehead City - but in the midst of the water & wetlands were these very small strips of 'sand islands' w/ housing complexes and boats - apropos to Scifan..'s comments, these would be utterly destroyed even in a tropical storm, I suspect - BUT, looked beautiful and inviting from Susan's iPhone pics - risky business, me thinks? Dave
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[giradman]

Beaufort (North Carolina), Blackbeard, Queen Anne's Revenge, & NC Maritime Museum

On our first full day, we drove to Harkers Island in anticipation of taking the short ferry ride over to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse - rain started and we did not go - next day, weather was also rainy, so not an option on this short trip. Instead, we went into Beaufort - see map below and relationship to Atlantic Beach-Fort Macon State Park - the underwater archeologic site of Blackbeard's flag ship, the Queen Anne's Revenge, is just over a mile south of Ft. Macon near the Beaufort Inlet - the remains of the ship were discovered in 1996 and undersea research has been an ongoing project w/ an exhibit of the the findings w/i the NC Maritime Museum located in downtown Beaufort.

Beaufort was established in 1709 and is considered (although debated) to be the third oldest town in North Carolina (see quote below), and not to be confused w/ a city of the same name in South Carolina - the NC town is pronounced BOW-FURT. The NC Maritime Museum and the associated Watercraft Center for boat restoration and training are located on Front Street across from each other. The museum has wonderful exhibits about the nautical history of North Carolina, but the highlight is about the ongoing underwater project on the study and recovery of objects related to the Queen Anne's Revenge (see second quote below from link) which was the flag ship of the infamous early 18th century pirate, Blackbeard (a.k.a. Edward Teach). Below are a number of 'inside pics' (could not use a flash so not great quality) of portions of the Queen Anne's Revenge exhibit, where Susan met a new friend (and parrot) - if in the vicinity, this museum is a MUST stop. More on Beaufort in the next post! Dave

Beaufort is a town in and the county seat of Carteret County, North Carolina, United States.[4]Established in 1709, Beaufort is the third-oldest town in North Carolina (after Bath and Edenton).[5][6] On February 1, 2012, Beaufort was ranked as "America's Coolest Small Town" by readers of Budget Travel Magazine.[7]

The population was 4,039 at the 2010 census.[8] It is sometimes confused with a city of the same name in South Carolina; the two are distinguished by different pronunciations.[3]

Beaufort is located in North Carolina's "Inner Banks" region. The town is home to the North Carolina Maritime Museum, the Duke University Marine Laboratory (Nicholas School of the Environment), and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Center for Coastal Fisheries and Habitat Research. It is also the location of the Rachel Carson Coastal Reserve.[9]

Queen Anne's Revenge was a frigate, most famously used as a flagship by the pirate Blackbeard (Edward Teach). She had been launched by the Royal Navy in 1710, and captured by France in 1711. She was used as a slave ship by the French, and was captured by pirates in 1717. Blackbeard used the ship for less than a year,[3] but captured numerous prizes using her as his flagship.

In 1718 Blackbeard ran the ship aground at Beaufort Inlet, North Carolina, in the present-day Carteret County.[3] After the grounding her crew and supplies were transferred to smaller ships. In 1996 Intersal, Inc., a private firm, discovered the remains of a vessel likely to be Queen Anne's Revenge, which was added to the US National Register of Historic Places.

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[scifan57]

Beaufort (North Carolina), Blackbeard, Queen Anne's Revenge, & NC Maritime Museum

On our first full day, we drove to Harkers Island in anticipation of taking the short ferry ride over to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse - rain started and we did not go - next day, weather was also rainy, so not an option on this short trip. Instead, we went into Beaufort - see map below and relationship to Atlantic Beach-Fort Macon State Park - the underwater archeologic site of Blackbeard's flag ship, the Queen Anne's Revenge, is just over a mile south of Ft. Macon near the Beaufort Inlet - the remains of the ship were discovered in 1996 and undersea research has been an ongoing project w/ an exhibit of the the findings w/i the NC Maritime Museum located in downtown Beaufort.

Beaufort was established in 1709 and is considered (although debated) to be the third oldest town in North Carolina (see quote below), and not to be confused w/ a city of the same name in South Carolina - the NC town is pronounced BOW-FURT. The NC Maritime Museum and the associated Watercraft Center for boat restoration and training are located on Front Street across from each other. The museum has wonderful exhibits about the nautical history of North Carolina, but the highlight is about the ongoing underwater project on the study and recovery of objects related to the Queen Anne's Revenge (see second quote below from link) which was the flag ship of the infamous early 18th century pirate, Blackbeard (a.k.a. Edward Teach). Below are a number of 'inside pics' (could not use a flash so not great quality) of portions of the Queen Anne's Revenge exhibit, where Susan met a new friend (and parrot) - if in the vicinity, this museum is a MUST stop. More on Beaufort in the next post! Dave




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That's quite an interesting museum. Thanks for showing us the photos.

 

[giradman]

That's quite an interesting museum. Thanks for showing us the photos.

North Carolina has three Maritime Museums - I've been to the one in Southport (ferry ride from Ft. Fischer near Wilmington) but not to the Graveyard of the Atlantic one yet, so another reason to return to Roanoke Island and the Outer Banks. In Beaufort, the Watercraft Museum (described below - click on all images to enlarge) was fun to see, since I'm an amateur woodworker - would be interesting to take some lessons there in boat restoration, repair, & building if I lived nearby.

Regarding the pics of the Queen Anne's Revenge exhibit - there is an excellent PBS video shown (in the room on one of my previous images w/ all of the fish on the wall - the entrance hall to the museum), probably about 45 minutes long - available for purchase - for those interested, some googling might bring up a 'free watch', otherwise go HERE for some YouTube options. Dave
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[giradman]

Beaufort NC - Much More Than Just the Maritime Museum!

Beaufort, NC offers fabulous history (including capture by the Spanish, British, & Union Army during the Civil War), natural beauty w/ island preserves and national seashores where wild horses flourish, a multiple of sea & ocean related activities (swimming, shelling, boating, and many other options), great seafood and restaurants - a LOT more discussion HERE, for those interested and certainly for people visiting the area.

The first two images below relate to Rachel Carson, who wrote Silent Spring, one of my favorite books from my teens - she actually lived and did research in Beaufort and in her honor, a nature preserve was named for her - impressive! The several following images continue this natural theme, i.e. the wild (feral) horses which live on the barrier islands (e.g. Carrot Island and adjacent ones & Shackleford Banks) - there are about 60 or so horses in the 'Carrot Island' herd which are genetically different from the 140 or so on Shackelford Banks; the latter by DNA analysis are traced back to Spain as are most of the horses on the Virginia & Carolina coastal islands are animals that made landfall after Spanish ship wrecks - this is a continuing story. The following two pics are more of the Maritime Museum and the Watercraft extension across Front Street.

The next images show downtown Beaufort and the adjacent barrier islands where the horses live - these can be visited in a variety of ways (ferry, tours, etc.) for those interested. There is also a Visitor's Center w/ historic houses, a local art gallery, and a bus tour (on an old English double-decker) which provides a great review of the history of Beaufort, a view of the many historic houses, churches, graveyard, and other sites - we took the tour and a STRONG recommendation - views of Front Street, the boardwalk on the waterfront, one of the MANY historic houses, and the burying ground are shown below. AGAIN, a fascinating historic NC coastal town worth a visit if you are in the area. Dave
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[scifan57]

Beaufort NC - Much More Than Just the Maritime Museum!

Beaufort, NC offers fabulous history (including capture by the Spanish, British, & Union Army during the Civil War), natural beauty w/ island preserves and national seashores where wild horses flourish, a multiple of sea & ocean related activities (swimming, shelling, boating, and many other options), great seafood and restaurants - a LOT more discussion HERE, for those interested and certainly for people visiting the area.

The first two images below relate to Rachel Carson, who wrote Silent Spring, one of my favorite books from my teens - she actually lived and did research in Beaufort and in her honor, a nature preserve was named for her - impressive! The several following images continue this natural theme, i.e. the wild (feral) horses which live on the barrier islands (e.g. Carrot Island and adjacent ones & Shackleford Banks) - there are about 60 or so horses in the 'Carrot Island' herd which are genetically different from the 140 or so on Shackelford Banks; the latter by DNA analysis are traced back to Spain as are most of the horses on the Virginia & Carolina coastal islands are animals that made landfall after Spanish ship wrecks - this is a continuing story. The following two pics are more of the Maritime Museum and the Watercraft extension across Front Street.

The next images show downtown Beaufort and the adjacent barrier islands where the horses live - these can be visited in a variety of ways (ferry, tours, etc.) for those interested. There is also a Visitor's Center w/ historic houses, a local art gallery, and a bus tour (on an old English double-decker) which provides a great review of the history of Beaufort, a view of the many historic houses, churches, graveyard, and other sites - we took the tour and a STRONG recommendation - views of Front Street, the boardwalk on the waterfront, one of the MANY historic houses, and the burying ground are shown below. AGAIN, a fascinating historic NC coastal town worth a visit if you are in the area. Dave
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It certainly looks like a wonderful place to visit.

 

[giradman]

It certainly looks like a wonderful place to visit.

Thanks Scifan.. again for your interest in my travelogues - this focal point along the NC Atlantic area is known as the Crystal Coast - includes mainly the areas that I've mentioned so far, BUT I do have some addtional posts of other interesting activities, including Ft. Macon & State Park and also the Pine Knolls Shore Aquarium, both of which we re-visited - Dave

 

[giradman]

Pine Knoll Shores Aquarium - One of Three NC Aquariums

The North Carolina Aquariums consist of a trio situated on Roanoke Island, Pine Knoll Shores, and Ft. Fischer near Wilmington. The Pine Knoll Shores Aquarium is located in the adjacent barrier island community of the same name next to Atlantic City and about 10 minutes from our hotel - so, planned a return visit and stayed for a few hours - would have been longer but the intermittent rain prevented us from fullly enjoying the outdoor marsh boardwalks - below some quotes about the aquarium from the link given.

First pics below of the Pine Knoll Shores Aquarium and a portion of the outdoor marsh boardwalk - we went to the Bogue Sound Overlook and a white egret was fishing w/ a perfect pose for a great picture (all others from the web). The jellyfish and seahorse exhibits were small but beautiful - forgot that the papa seahorse carries the fertilized eggs of its offspring (thousands at a time!). Just one pic of the Living Shipwreck tank described below - this exhibit must be seen because pics just fail to do it justice - 3 scuba divers gave us a show - and one was able to talk to us w/ a special voice apparatus. The otters are in the tops for our favorite animals but were napping during our visit - the exhibit was gorgeous and would have been fun to see them playing & swimming. Finally, Nimbus, the albino turtle could also be viewed.

All of these NC Aquariums are worth a visit, each is not as impressive as the adjacent state aquariums in Virginia (at Virginia Beach) & in South Carolina (in Charleston), which we have seen; but in combination an impressive collection of aquatic exhibits. A DEFINITE recommendation. Dave

Most of the larger creatures inhabit the aquarium’s centerpiece exhibit, the 306,000-US-gallon Living Shipwreck. Along with hundreds of schooling fishes and other animals, they create a swirl of constant motion around a replica of U-352, a German submarine that lost a World War II battle with a Coast Guard cutter off the North Carolina coast. The aquarium’s three river otters also have lived up to expectations of stardom. With the help of the public, two were named Neuse and Pungo after North Carolina rivers. Neuse and Pungo came to the aquarium when they were about a year old in 2006. Eno, the third otter, was brought to the aquarium at four weeks old in April 2008, after his mother was killed by a car near White Lake.

On August 11, 2010, a rare white sea turtle was brought to the aquarium for care. Nimbus, as the turtle was named, was weak and smaller than the average loggerhead hatchling. It turned up when a hatched-out Pine Knoll Shores nest was excavated for baby turtles left behind. Hampered by a cleft palate, it had to be coaxed into eating. It lagged behind in growth, also, but appears to be catching up with other hatchlings of the same age. Nimbus is on exhibit in the Tidal Waters Gallery. The turtle is something of a rock star at the aquarium — especially with visiting school groups.

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