Tap at the very top of the screen, where the page name and time show, and the url, icon, and tab bars will re-appear. Tap there a second time and you'll jump back to the beginning of page.
Also, some new tricks:
Try pinching the screen with two fingers. This will give you a thumbnail view of all open tabs. Tap the tab you want to view. The previous tab will still be at it's scroll point when you go back to it.
This view has a couple of other features you may find useful. If you have another iOS device or a Mac signed onto the same iCloud account, you can see any open tabs on those devices as well. You can even close them from your current device.
There is a + icon so you can open new tabs.
It's also the new place to quickly switch in/out of Private mode.
Be careful about swiping thumbnails. This is one of the two methods of closing a tab. The other is to tap the X in the top left corner.
This is the same view/mode you get when tapping the double square icon at the top right; when the title bar is showing.
Apple taketh away. Apple giveth.
Interestingly, if you use this view to switch between a blank tab (showing your favorites) and an old tab that's been scrolled; you temporarily get the tool bars back. Until you scroll again. It's probably a bug.
Edit: The first part of the post was written last. I only discovered it while playing around with the other features that I already knew about, making sure I actually knew about them. In other words, thank you for your question; well, more like rant, but we'll give you credit anyway.