Winston-Salem and Triad North Carolina

[giradman]

Well, after all of my travelogues including a number about North Carolina, I've failed to discuss Winston-Salem, where Susan & I have lived since 1977 (and also 1971-75, my internship & residency). The first two posts will be about the 1929 Reynolds Building which has just opened as a boutique hotel w/ a restaurant called the Katherine Brassiere & Bar - we just finished dinner there and had a wonderful dinning experience - these next two are re-postings from another thread and will be followed by our visit tonight to the hotel & restaurant.

There is a long history to this hyphenated city of mine (starting back in the 1750s) and many places to visit, so subsequent posts will bring up these topics. Hope all viewing will enjoy - Dave

 

[giradman]

Historic Reynolds Building Recycled into an Hotel & Condominiums!

In the last few months, the historic Reynolds Building, designed by the architectural firm of Shreve, Lamb & Harmon Associates was completed in 1929, and became the headquarters of R.J. Reynolds Tobacco in my home town, Winston-Salem, NC; the structure was preserved and converted to condos on the upper floors and the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel on the lower 6 floors - a new restaurant, Katharine Brassiere & Bar has also opened, and named after Katherine Smith Reynolds (wife of R.J. Reynolds, the found of the company).

The building is 314 ft in height - a year later in 1930, the same architectural firm started a new project in NYC, i.e. the construction of the Empire State Building (a little taller at 1,453 ft, including the antenna) - "Every year the staff of the Empire State Building sends a Father's Day card to the staff at the Reynolds Building in Winston-Salem to pay homage to its role as predecessor to the Empire State Building (link above)." Pics below of both buildings plus a comparison of heights - we've not yet eaten at the restaurant but on our 'to do' list soon! Dave
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[giradman]

I can certainly see the definite similarities between the two buildings. It almost looks as if the R.J. Reynolds Building was a proof of concept for the upcoming Empire State Building a year later.

Hi Scifan.. - that Father's Day card story is great! My son is a good half foot taller than me, so I can relate to the height difference -

The building had an indefinite future for a number of years - almost bought by the same people who developed the Proximity & O.Henry Hotels in Greensboro (a frequent overnight visit for us - both have excellent restaurants), but never happened - now, the structure has been preserved - a further achievement in the re-vitalization of our downtown area.

NOW, is the restaurant good? The menu is below - rather eclectic w/ a 'southern' tilt - there are daily oyster selections, and Susan would adore the Lobster Pot Pie, if good; some interesting fish selections for me - we'll give the place a try soon. Dave
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[giradman]

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel - Restored Reynolds Building

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel opened in downtown Winston-Salem earlier this year along w/ the Katharine Brasserie & Bar which we dined at tonight - will discuss in the next post.

A brief description below from the link above - the building opened in 1929 and was designed by the same architectural firm who several years later were building the Empire State Building in NYC. The first three pics show the hotel's location in our downtown area (it's no longer the tallest one in our city but in '29 was the tallest building in the USA south of Baltimore, MD) - for decades the structure served as the headquarters of the RJ Reynolds Tobacco Company. The last three pics show the inside lobby area and also the elevator corridor - the art deco design of the era has been wonderfully restored giving a feeling like walking into a 1930s movie - spectacular. Dave

Built in 1929, the R.J. Reynolds building was the architectural inspiration for New York City’s Empire State Building. Today it remains an endearing icon in the Winston-Salem skyline, still grandly representing the timeless traditions of the South.

Re-imagined as The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel, this historic landmark welcomes you with modern flair. Our lushly designed living room beckons with social seating areas and Sweet Tea Hour. Savor locally sourced dishes at The Katharine, our own American brasserie. Swanky ballrooms and gathering spaces host memorable meetings, events and weddings. All in a glamorous ambience of Art Deco flourishes, metallic finishes and cardinal-red details in unexpected places.

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[scifan57]

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel - Restored Reynolds Building

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel opened in downtown Winston-Salem earlier this year along w/ the Katherine Brasserie & Bar which we dined at tonight - will discuss in the next post.

A brief description below from the link above - the building opened in 1929 and was designed by the same architectural firm who several years later were building the Empire State Building in NYC. The first three pics show the hotel's location in our downtown area (it's no longer the tallest one in our city but in '29 was the tallest building in the USA south of Baltimore, MD) - for decades the structure served as the headquarters of the RJ Reynolds Tobacco Company. The last three pics show the inside lobby area and also the elevator corridor - the art deco design of the era has been wonderfully restored giving a feeling like walking into a 1930s movie - spectacular. Dave


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They've done an excellent job of restoration and rehabilitation on the Reynolds building. I'm sure it will have decades of useful life ahead.

 

[giradman]

The Katharine Brasserie & Bar

The Katharine Brasserie & Bar is located right inside and to the left of the entrance into the hotel - not a large bar and restaurant but quite cozy - the bar has a LOT of beers on draft and at one end the 'raw bar' area as shown below - the bar was busy after our dinner and may have to just return and try eating from the seafood area -

Our dining area along w/ the visible kitchen is shown in some of the pics below (see their menu in a previous post) - tonight, their oyster offerings were Kumamotos from the northwest Pacific coast & Rappahannock River oysters from Virginia - we shared a dozen which were just excellent; Susan had the Lobster Pot Pie which came w/ a small mixed green salad - a pound of lobster was present in that pie shown below - WOW! I had the Grouper (described on the menu pic before); Susan found an excellent cocktail and ordered two (a rarity for her); I had a couple of glasses of Loire Vly Sauvignon Blanc (presumed from Sancerre). Dessert included a Lemon Mousse & a Pecan Tart w/ Homemade Pecan Ice Cream. I would have to say from my first experience that this is the best restaurant in the city - it is pricey so will not be a frequent visit for us, but on special occasions. Dave
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[giradman]

They've done an excellent job of restoration and rehabilitation on the Reynolds building. I'm sure it will have decades of useful life ahead.

Yep - that elevator corridor was a 'blast from the past', to be sure! We might just do an overnight to see what a room is like - our anniversary is coming up next month - hmmm? Dave

P.S. the 'greenish' tint on that elevator corridor is artificial - the metal is more stainless steel shiny w/ gold highlights - did a little manipulation of that same photo below - not a lot better, but there is really no green in reality.
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[scifan57]

The Katherine Brasserie & Bar

The Katherine Brasserie & Bar is located right inside and to the left of the entrance into the hotel - not a large bar and restaurant but quite cozy - the bar has a LOT of beers on draft and at one end the 'raw bar' area as shown below - the bar was busy after our dinner and may have to just return and try eating from the seafood area -

Our dining area along w/ the visible kitchen is shown in some of the pics below (see their menu in a previous post) - tonight, their oyster offerings were Kumamotos from the northwest Pacific coast & Rappahannock River oysters from Virginia - we shared a dozen which were just excellent; Susan had the Lobster Pot Pie which came w/ a small mixed green salad - a pound of lobster was present in that pie shown below - WOW! I had the Grouper (described on the menu pic before); Susan found an excellent cocktail and ordered two (a rarity for her); I had a couple of glasses of Loire Vly Sauvignon Blanc (presumed from Sancerre). Dessert included a Lemon Mousse & a Pecan Tart w/ Homemade Pecan Ice Cream. I would have to say from my first experience that this is the best restaurant in the city - it is pricey so will not be a frequent visit for us, but on special occasions. Dave
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I figured that oysters would have to be on the menu.

 

[giradman]

I figured that oysters would have to be on the menu.

In this town, fresh shucked oysters were non-existent for many of our years here, but in the last decade or so, the demand has brought decent oysters into the city - we now have a half dozen restaurants (w/ this newest addition) where good oysters are available. What was unexpected tonight, was the Kumamoto offering from the Pacific coast - usually the oysters here are sourced from the Atlantic coast and the Gulf of Mexico, i.e. Apalachicola area of Florida (as in my previous travelogue). Dave

 

[giradman]

Piedmont Triad & 18th Century Moravian Settlement

A couple of separate topics - first, there are three major population centers in North Carolina, the Charlotte area & the Triangle (Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill - a previous travelogue) are the largest followed by the Triad (brief description quoted below). Winston-Salem (W-S) is the most historic city in the Triad regarding early settlement - first two pics below showing the counties making up Piedmont, NC and the three main cities, i.e. W-S, Greensboro (GSO, the largest), and High Point - there are about a half million people living in W-S & GSO.

The Moravian religion & culture are important to the 18th century settlement of the W-S area; this religious sect migrated from Moravia (now in the Czech Republic - map below) to the American colonies; from Bethlehem, PA, early Moravian settlers explored the NC Piedmont and selected a tract of land for their early communities; the first was Bethabara, established in 1753, followed by Bethania - in June of 1766 (250th year anniversary right now!), the town of Salem was being built - all of this history (and links/pics) will be discussed in upcoming posts.

The additional pics below show the routes travelled on the Old Wagon Road in colonial times to settle the Carolinas, Georgia, and elsewhere - the location of the three Moravian communities named in the previous paragraph can be seen along this important route. Today, on a directions map, the current 'car drive' from Bethlehem to Bethabara is shown - these are now major HWs (many of which Susan & I have frequented often) - cannot imagine making that trip in a wagon on unpaved mud roads. Dave

The Piedmont Triad (or the Triad) is a north-central region of North Carolina that consists of the area within and surrounding the three major cities of Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and High Point. This close group or "triad" of cities lies in the Piedmont geographical region of the United States and forms the basis of the Greensboro-Winston-Salem-High Point CSA. The area of the triad is approximately 5,954 square miles. The metropolitan area is connected by Interstates 40, 85, 73, & 74 and is served by the Piedmont Triad International Airport. Long known as one of the primary manufacturing and transportation hubs of the southeastern United States, the Triad is also an important educational and cultural region and occupies a prominent place in the history of the American Civil Rights Movement. As of 2012, the Piedmont Triad has an estimated population of 1,611,243 making it the 33rd largest CSA metropolitan area in the United States (Source).

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[scifan57]

Piedmont Triad & 18th Century Moravian Settlement

A couple of separate topics - first, there are three major population centers in North Carolina, the Charlotte area & the Triangle (Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill - a previous travelogue) are the largest followed by the Triad (brief description quoted below). Winston-Salem (W-S) is the most historic city in the Triad regarding early settlement - first two pics below showing the counties making up Piedmont, NC and the three main cities, i.e. W-S, Greensboro (GSO, the largest), and High Point - there are about a half million people living in W-S & GSO.

The Moravian religion & culture are important to the 18th century settlement of the W-S area; this religious sect migrated from Moravia (now in the Czech Republic - map below) to the American colonies; from Bethlehem, PA, early Moravian settlers explored the NC Piedmont and selected a tract of land for their early communities; the first was Bethabara, established in 1753, followed by Bethania - in June of 1766 (250th year anniversary right now!), the town of Salem was being built - all of this history (and links/pics) will be discussed in upcoming posts.

The additional pics below show the routes travelled on the Old Wagon Road in colonial times to settle the Carolinas, Georgia, and elsewhere - the location of the three Moravian communities named in the previous paragraph can be seen along this important route. Today, on a directions map, the current 'car drive' from Bethlehem to Bethabara is shown - these are now major HWs (many of which Susan & I have frequented often) - cannot imagine making that trip in a wagon on unpaved mud roads. Dave


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Thanks for another very interesting snippet of local history. Does any of the original road still exist?

 

[giradman]

Great Wagon Road - Philadelphia to Augusta, GA

The Great Wagon Road extended 700 miles from Pennsylvania, through Virginia & the Carolinas, and onto Augusta, Georgia (which is on the Savannah River). Most of the road paralleled some of the current major highways (such as I-81 through the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia - a favorite trip for us) and the smaller highways; also the road has been converted into many current highways, if interested check the link in the section quote below - there is a 'segment to segment' description.

Finally, "today, it is possible to experience many segments of the old road by car, by bike, or even on foot. Although most of the road has seen profound changes, some areas retain scenery much as the pioneers encountered it." (Source second quote).

Just a few pics below - the first a map showing the route of the Great Wagon Road; the second, an old photo of wagons on a portion of the road in North Carolina; and finally, a couple of pics of exploration of the remnants of the road in the Winston-Salem area (source given in the first quote below - a short but excellent read). Dave

The Great Wagon Road was North Carolina’s first interstate highway and the last muscle-powered freeway. The road served as a gateway to land ownership and prosperity for many of our ancestors. Scotch-Irish were among the first Europeans to settle the Piedmont region of NC. Many traditions that are celebrated in North Carolina today were brought here by way of the The Great Wagon Road.

The Great Wagon Road began in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and spanned more than 700 miles through Virginia, North Carolina, and South Carolina before ending in Augusta, Georgia. Despite its name, The Great Wagon Road was a harsh and a dangerous journey to make by wagon, horseback or even by foot. Hundreds of pioneers and settlers were vulnerable to Native American attacks, criminals, and robbers along the road (Source).

Despite its current name, the southern part of this road was by no means passable by wagons until later colonial times. In 1753, a group of wagon travelers reported that "the good road ended at Augusta" (now Staunton, Virginia), although they did keep going all the way to Winston-Salem. By all accounts, it was never a comfortable route. The lines of settlers' covered wagons moving south were matched by a line of wagons full of agricultural produce heading north to urban markets; these were interspersed with enormous herds of cattle, hogs, and other livestock being driven north to market. Although there surely would have been pleasant areas for travel, road conditions also could vary from deep mud to thick dust, mixed with animal waste. Inns generally provided only the most basic food and a space to sleep.

Today, it is possible to experience many segments of the old road by car, by bike, or even on foot. Although most of the road has seen profound changes, some areas retain scenery much as the pioneers encountered it Source).

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[scifan57]

Great Wagon Road - Philadelphia to Augusta, GA

The Great Wagon Road extended 700 miles from Pennsylvania, through Virginia & the Carolinas, and onto Augusta, Georgia (which is on the Savannah River). Most of the road paralleled some of the current major highways (such as I-81 through the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia - a favorite trip for us) and the smaller highways; also the road has been converted into many current highways, if interested check the link in the section quote below - there is a 'segment to segment' description.

Finally, "today, it is possible to experience many segments of the old road by car, by bike, or even on foot. Although most of the road has seen profound changes, some areas retain scenery much as the pioneers encountered it." (Source second quote).

Just a few pics below - the first a map showing the route of the Great Wagon Road; the second, an old photo of wagons on a portion of the road in North Carolina; and finally, a couple of pics of exploration of the remnants of the road in the Winston-Salem area (source given in the first quote below - a short but excellent read). Dave




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Thanks for the extra information.

 

[giradman]

Bethabara - First Moravian Settlement in the Triad - 1753

In 1752, the Wachovia Tract in Piedmont North Carolina was purchased on behalf of the Moravians from the Earl of Granville and consisted of 100,000 acres (see first map below); the first community was established at Bethabara in 1753 (Wiki quotes below & second map showing the geographic relationship of this first town to the other two Moravian communities relative to modern roads - all are w/i a 10-15 minute drive from my home). The name Bethabara is considered the site where Jesus was baptized, as stated below.

Bethabara was meant to be just a temporary settlement until a more 'appropriate' place in the Tract was found, which was Salem, started in 1766. Wachovia "is the Latin form of the German "die Wachau, was chosen as the name of the North Carolina Moravian tract, to honor Count Zinzendorf, Moravian patron and bishop whose family estate was located in the Wachau region northwest of Vienna, along the Danube River. Our local bank for many years was Wachovia which was taken over by Wells Fargo, just as our Piedmont Airlines was purchased and became part of the USAir Group.

Bethabara is now a historic site and city park - the next two pics are a park map and an aerial view w/ important attractions labelled. The next four images show some of the buildings on the site, archeological ruins (still being studied), and the community gardens. The cemetery for these early Moravian communities was high on a hill (a strenuous walk for oldsters as seen below) - the last pics are views of God's Acre, a serene & pleasant place to relax; their are miles of easy and more strenuous trails in the park. Dave

Bethabara Historic District encompasses the surviving buildings and archaeological remains of a small Moravian community, that was first settled in 1753. Located in present-day Forsyth County, North Carolina, it is now a public park of the city of Winston-Salem. It was designated National Historic Landmark in 1999. Bethabara (from the Hebrew, meaning "House of Passage" and pronounced beth-ab-bra, the name of the traditional site of the Baptism of Jesus Christ) was the site where fifteen men from the Moravian Church first settled in 1753 in an abandoned cabin in the 100,000-acre (400 km2) tract of land the church had purchased from Lord Granville and dubbed Wachovia (Source).

Although later parties of Moravians joined the first fifteen, including women and children, Bethabara was never meant to be a permanent settlement. It was intended to house the Moravians until a more suitable location for their central village could be found. In 1771, that place was completed: Salem. Many of the settlers moved to Salem, and Bethabara became an outlying farm to supply the residents of Salem and other Moravian villages with food (Source).

Today, what remains of the village, including the excavated foundations of the original buildings, the restored Gemeinhaus (the Bethabara Moravian Church), and the reconstructed palisade and colonial gardens, is part of Historic Bethabara Park. The 183-acre (0.74 km2) park and wildlife preserve is located in Winston-Salem and is operated by the City of Winston-Salem Recreation & Parks Department as an open-air museum. The site also features 20 miles (32 km) of nature trails (Source).

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[giradman]

Bethania - First Planned Moravian Community in the Triad - 1759!

Bethania was established in 1759 just three miles from Bethabara - both the latter and then Salem were run on a communal system of common house keeping and labor; 'Single Sisters' lived together in one house and 'Single Brothers' in another, while a number of married couples shared a house - the community was carefully structured. Apparently some of the Moravians wanted a 'different' arrangement, such as owning their own homes and running their lives independently rather than as a communal effort.

Quoted below some more historic and current information on Bethania - the first four images below show several road plaques and the visitor's center, followed by pics of a number of restored houses and other buildings - the 'Bethania Mill & Village Shoppes' was indeed an old grain mill now converted into shops, offices, and the Muddy Creek & Music Venue, where usually local talent appears - I've not gone yet but Susan has attended several musical events (her guitar teachers, past & present, appear occasionally) - Dave

Bethania is the oldest municipality in Forsyth County, North Carolina, United States, and was most recently incorporated in 1995, upon the reactivation of the original 1838/1839 town charter. In 2009, Bethania celebrated the 250th anniversary of its establishment in 1759.

The first planned Moravian settlement in North Carolina, Bethania exists as the only remaining independent, continuously active Moravian village in the southern United States, and is the only known existing Germanic-type Linear Agricultural village in the South. The 500-acre Bethania National Historic Landmark district is the largest National Landmark in Forsyth County. Bethania and its 18th and 19th century properties are listed on the National and North Carolina State Historic Registers of Places (Source).

Bethania was founded 12 June 1759 by the Moravian Brethren of Wachovia as a congregational, agricultural, and trades community. Bethania was the first planned Moravian settlement in Wachovia, and members of a Society, under the care of the Bethania congregation were permitted to reside in the village, as well, after July 1759. Today, Bethania's eighteenth-century German-type linear agricultural village design remains visible and intact, and most town lots and roadways have remained in continuous use since 1759. The town was named "Bethania" the German form of the name Bethany, a village near Jerusalem recorded in the New Testament as the home of Mary, Marthaand Lazarus, as well as that of Simon the Leper (Source).

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