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South Carolina Coast - Beaufort, Kiawah Island, & Charleston

giradman

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Susan & I are on our first major car trip of the year (she needed cataract surgery which occupied much of March, our usually trip to Florida eliminated) - so, we are currently in Beaufort, South Carolina for 3 nights and then Kiawah Island for another 3 nights - we will not be going into Charleston, a place of many visits over the decades, so the discussion for now will relate mainly to the first two places in the heading - I'm surprised in looking back over my travelogues that Kiawah Island & Charleston have not been discussed in depth, so hopefully this beginning posting will correct some of that absence.

Beaufort, South Carolina is the second oldest city in the state after Charleston (late 1600s vs. 1711 - see quote) - from our home about a 5 hr drive (see first pic below) - the town is located among dozens of sea and barrier islands, located on Port Royal island which also has a town of the same name (second pic) - see description below w/ link above; the historic section of 19th century architecture is large (and occupies much of the aerial view shown); there are many local attractions and great history and seafood (later) - this is probably our 4th visit but all others were 'day trips' - this time we are staying for 3 nights at the Beaufort Inn (also shown) which is just a block from Bay Street, the main street near the water and location of plenty of restaurants and shops, especially those related to art, antiques, etc.

Much more to follow, so just an amuse-bouche - :) Dave

Beaufort (/ˈbjuːfərt/ BEW-fərt, a different pronunciation from that used by the city with the same name in North Carolina) is the county seat of Beaufort County, South Carolina, United States. Chartered in 1711, it is the second-oldest city in South Carolina, behind Charleston. The city's population was 12,361 in the 2010 census. It is a primary city within the Hilton Head Island-Bluffton-Beaufort, SC Metropolitan Statistical Area. Beaufort is located on Port Royal Island, in the heart of the Sea Islands and South Carolina Lowcountry. The city is renowned for its scenic location and for maintaining a historic character by preservation of its antebellum architecture. The city is also known for its military establishments, being located in close proximity to Parris Island, in addition to being home of the Marine Corps Air Station Beaufort. The city has been featured in the New York Times, and named "Best Small Southern Town" by Southern Living.
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giradman

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Thanks Scifan.. day was rainy yesterday but we visited a few museums, including the one on Parris Island (a major USA Marine Training Center) - next post tonight - about to take a carriage ride through historic Beaufort and the day is sunny and warmer - hope for some of my own pics! Dave
 
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Parris Island, the Marine Corps, and the Museum

Yesterday, we drove to the Marine Corps Recruit Depot Parris Island, which trains enlisted Marine recruits (males east of the Mississippi River & females from the entire USA) - if interested, check link and first quote below. But Parris Island has a longer history than Beaufort or Charleston - first attempts at settlement occurred in the 16th century by the French and Spanish, the latter settlement was named St. Elena and was the capital of Florida before St. Augustine was established. Eventually, the English dominated and rice, indigo, and Sea Island cotton became the main agricultural products reliant completely on slavery (see 2nd quote - same link).

In 1891, Marines were first assigned to Parris Island (3rd quote - same link), and at the end of 1915, Parris Island was officially designated a Marine Corps Recruit Depot and training has continued since that time; nearly 20,000 recruits received their training annually. To enter the base, a driver's license, vehicle registration and proof of insurance are needed. The setting is beautiful w/ surrounding sounds, wetlands, and the Atlantic Ocean. The main purpose of our visit was to see the Paris Island Museum and well worth the effort - history of the island is traced from pre-Columbian times, through the many wars, up to the modern times - an excellent film on training of recruits is available along w/ a gift shop - highly recommended. Pics below illustrate many of these comments. Dave :)

P.S. the correct spelling is 'Parris Island' and not Paris which appears on some maps shown and in at least one of the exhibits in the museum - ;)

Marine Corps Recruit Depot Parris Island (often abbreviated as MCRD PI) is an 8,095-acre (32.76 km2) military installation located within Port Royal, South Carolina, approximately 5 miles (8.0 km) south of Beaufort, the community that is typically associated with the installation. MCRD Parris Island is used for the training of enlistedMarines. Male recruits living east of the Mississippi River and female recruits from all over the United States report here to receive their initial training. Male recruits living west of the Mississippi River receive their training at Marine Corps Recruit Depot San Diego, California, but may train at Marine Corps Recruit Depot Parris Island by special request.

A French Huguenot expedition, led by Jean Ribault in 1562, was the first European group to attempt to colonize Parris Island. Earlier Spanish expeditions had sighted the area, and named it "Punta de Santa Elena". The French expedition built an outpost named Charlesfort, and Ribault left a small garrison as he returned to France for colonists and supplies. After a long absence, due to Ribault's delay from wars in Europe, Charlesfort was abandoned after the garrison mutinied, built a ship on the island, and sailed back to France in April 1563. In 1566 the Spanish, led by Pedro Menéndez de Avilés founded a settlement named Santa Elena which became the capital of La Florida for the next decade. Spain finally abandoned Santa Elena in 1587. England took control of the region by the 17th century, and Parris Island became home to British plantations after being purchased by Colonel Alexander Parris, treasurer of the South Carolina colony, in 1715. From the 1720s to the Civil War, the island was divided into a number of plantations, initially growing indigo, then later cotton.

Marines were first assigned to Parris Island on June 26, 1891, in the form of a small security detachment headed by First Sergeant Richard Donovan, two corporals and 10 privates. This unit was attached to the Naval Station, Port Royal, the forerunner of Parris Island. Donovan's unit was highly commended for preserving life and property during hurricanes and storm surges that swept over the island in 1891 and 1893. Military buildings and homes constructed between 1891 and World War I form the nucleus of the Parris Island Historic District. At the district center are the commanding general's home, a 19th-century wooden dry dock and a start of the 20th century gazebo—all of which are on the National Register of Historic Places.
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giradman

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Beaufort History Museum

After our trip to Parris Island, we returned to Beaufort and visited their History Museum, which is located in the old Arsenal (see pics below), built in 1798 (also includes the Visitor's Center), and just a few blocks from the Beaufort Inn. The early Spanish and French history of the Beaufort area has already been mentioned, but Beaufort's History can be divided into the periods shown below - much of the town's historic houses date from the colonial and antebellum periods, which makes the town unique and beautiful - this was the time of slavery, plantations, and wealthy land owners who had properties on the sea islands growing rice & indigo and houses in the city. This ended with the Civil War and Reconstruction.

The Beaufort History Museum is small (as noted in the images below) but fairly thorough in discussing these various historic periods - personally, I expected a better and larger presentation but the museum is about to start a renovation and am looking forward to returning to see the results - still worth a visit. Dave :)
  • Colonial Period, 1711-1783 (signing of the Treaty of Paris ending the Revolutionary War)
  • Antebellum Period, 1783-1861 (start of the Civil War)
  • Civil War & Reconstruction, 1861-1893 (devastating hurricane + fire in 1907)
  • Decline, 1893-1945 (related to natural disasters and other causes)
  • Recovery, 1945-Present (military investment, resort development, and downtown revitalization)
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Carriage Ride & Old Point Neighborhood

On a beautiful Tuesday morning, we took a carriage ride - our horse was a 15 y/o 2000 pound animal originally from Asheville, NC - the trip lasted about an hour and toured mainly the Old Point Neighborhood - see quotes below from link w/ an introductory discussion of the Beaufort Historic District and a more specific description of our tour - the homes varied in size w/ many being large; live oaks and Spanish moss were abundant - the oldest extant house in the district dated to 1720.

Many movies have been made in and around Beaufort, SC and the stars often will rent out one of the houses in this area - examples include Sally Field (Forest Gump) and Nick Nolte (Prince of Tides) - will likely do a post on this topic. Except for the map, all of the pics all mine - include the carriage depot near the Riverfront Park, an old Chevy restored by a retired teacher who explained the car to me (brought back a lot of memories, especially the food tray on the door), and a number of houses seen during the excursion - we enjoyed; would also be a great area to walk and explore - there are many famous houses to see and we just touch the surface. Dave :)

Beaufort Historic District is a historic district in Beaufort, South Carolina. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1969, and was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1973. The historic district is renowned for its impressive collection of antebellum architecture that reflect the Federal, neoclassical, and Greek revival styles that were popular during the interwar period, along with the widespread use of tabby. A variety of homes, gardens, commercial buildings, houses of worship and graveyards are featured in the district, with some sites open for public inspection. Continuous efforts at rehabilitation and conservation underline the community's commitment to maintaining the historic nature of the district, which has attracted much acclaim.

The Point neighborhood (also known as the Old Point) is home to some of Beaufort's largest, oldest, and most expensive homes. Defined as the land between Carteret Street and the Beaufort River, this portion of downtown does not follow the major street grid and was once an area where a timber mill operated. Homes in this area range from the impressive mansions that overlook the Beaufort river to Victorian and Queen Anne style homes along Craven Street. Streetscapes are typically dominated by an impressive live oak canopy, often accompanied by Spanish moss.
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scifan57

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Carriage Ride & Old Point Neighborhood

On a beautiful Tuesday morning, we took a carriage ride - our horse was a 15 y/o 2000 pound animal originally from Asheville, NC - the trip lasted about an hour and toured mainly the Old Point Neighborhood - see quotes below from link w/ an introductory discussion of the Beaufort Historic District and a more specific description of our tour - the homes varied in size w/ many being large; live oaks and Spanish moss were abundant - the oldest extant house in the district dated to 1720.

Many movies have been made in and around Beaufort, SC and the stars often will rent out one of the houses in this area - examples include Sally Field (Forest Gump) and Nick Nolte (Prince of Tides) - will likely do a post on this topic. Except for the map, all of the pics all mine - include the carriage depot near the Riverfront Park, an old Chevy restored by a retired teacher who explained the car to me (brought back a lot of memories, especially the food tray on the door), and a number of houses seen during the excursion - we enjoyed; would also be a great area to walk and explore - there are many famous houses to see and we just touch the surface. Dave :)




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giradman

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A lot of time, it's chance that spares neighbourhoods like this. I'm glad these houses were spared.

Hi Scifan.. - thanks for your interest in this new travelogue - Susan & I will have to return to see more of the historic houses and walk the neighborhoods - also a number are open to the public - we did not visit any, just needed more time. A hurricane in 1893 & a fire in 1907 destroyed a number of buildings in the 'Old Point Neighborhood' - not really noticeable today.

On a late afternoon walk, I past the 'Secession House' (pics of plaque below and the house) - some other history quoted also - antebellum Beaufort plantation owners were avid secessionists, so the house was a 'hotbed' for discussions and likely heated debates about leaving the Union. Dave :)

Secession House - built in: 1813 - an inscription on the basement wall reads: “In this house the first meeting of Secession Áwas held in South Carolina.” According to local tradition, after voting, the Beaufort County Delegation went directly to the boat landing and set off for Charleston to cast their ballots for secession. The foundation of the house represents the base of an earlier 2-story house that was reportedly constructed in 1743. Around 1800 Milton Maxcy came to Beaufort from Massachusetts to open a school for boys and acquired the property. He removed the tabby second floor, and added two stories of wood siding. The next owner, Edmund Rhett, rebuilt the two upper floors completely, circa 1861, using modified Greek Revival architecture. The house was used by the Union Army for headquarters of General Rufus Saxton, billeting of officers, a hospital, and for the office of Paymaster. (Source)
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Hunting Island State Park

On our last afternoon in Beaufort, we drove to Hunting Island (see maps), the most visited State Park in South Carolina - over recent decades, major beach erosion and hurricanes in the last two years have further damaged the park, but has also produced some amazing scenes, such as the water-bound famous blue cabin (see pics); first two quotes below from link above - these recent storms have had a disastrous impact on the loggerhead turtle nests - more HERE.

A major attraction in the park is the Hunting Island Lighthouse constructed of cast iron plates in order to move the structure if endangered by the sea and beach erosion (see last quote below); the lighthouse was last moved in 1889 and then deactivated in 1933 - public access for a fee is allowed to climb the 167 steps - I decided not to go to the top - did a climb last year on our Outer Banks trip (Currituck Lighthouse), so was not too disappointed - ;)

Pics below are mostly from the web but a few of my own - the beaches are amazingly beautiful and eerie w/ the trees and their trunks - of course, photographers love the place, as is evident in several of the last images below. Dave :)

Hunting Island is a 5,000-acre (20 km2) secluded semitropical barrier island located 15 miles (24 km) east of Beaufort, South Carolina, United States. Since 1935, it has been classified as a state park. It is the most-visited state park facility in South Carolina, known for its natural environment, the island remains one of the few remaining undeveloped Sea Islands in the Lowcountry. The park is known for its 19th century lighthousewhich bears its name. Since 1980, Hunting Island has suffered major beach erosion as a result of heavy tides from the confluence of the Atlantic Ocean and Saint Helena Sound, and is expected to shrink in size by ten per cent over the next forty years. In 1993, most of the Vietnam scenes in Forrest Gump were filmed on Hunting Island and neighboring Fripp Island.

The wildlife includes loggerhead turtles, deer, alligators, raccoons, diamondback rattlesnakes, and hundreds of species of birds. The island has an abundance of herons and egrets. The interior lagoon has become naturalized and home to seahorses and barracuda. Each summer Loggerhead Turtle hatchlings emerge from the sand and walk out to the ocean. Around 60 and 130 nests are laid annually on the beach. A volunteer organization, the friends of hunting island has a permit to find and protect the nests. Each morning during nesting season, volunteers walk every mile of the beach to help find and protect nests.

The historic Hunting Island lighthouse was originally constructed in 1859 and is the only lighthouse in the state of South Carolina that is open to the public. From the top platform, for those who are adventurous enough to climb the 167 step spiral staircase ($2 fee), provides a birds eye view of the Atlantic Ocean, the park and surrounding marshes from about 132 feet above the ground. The first lighthouse was destroyed by the confederates during the beginning of the Civil War to prevent the Union from using it as a means of navigation. It was rebuilt and placed back into service in 1875. The purpose of this lighthouse was to warn ships to stay far away, as there are many hazards such as sandbars, wrecks, surf and treacherous currents. It was deactivated in June of 1933. (Source)
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Beaufort Restaurants - Great Seafood!

Well, we had three excellent dinners, a lunch, and oysters daily! For those who may be traveling around Beaufort, SC, then these three can be recommended (although plenty more were on our list - but these were just a few blocks from the Beaufort Inn and two on the waterfront: Saltus River Grill, Emily's Restaurant & Tapas Bar, and Plums - the first night at the Saltus River Grill - started out w/ local oysters from Lady's Island (see map in first post, if interested), briny and delicious - I had the fresh catch of the day and Susan an excellent shrimp and grits.

Our second night, tried Emily's, just a block from the Beaufort Inn - I had the fresh catch halibut and Susan three tapas dishes - skipped dessert and went back to the Saltus Grill for another dozen Lady Island oysters on the half shell! After our carriage ride, we had lunch @ Plums and shared a shellfish tower, oysters & shrimp - our final dinner was a return to the Saltus Grill - we again started w/ local oysters, this time from St. Helena Island, which is on the way to Hunting Island - I had sushi which was outstanding!

SO, if visiting the area a lover of seafood, then will not be disappointed. Dave :)
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Pat Conroy, Southern Literature, & Movies Around Beaufort

Pat Conroy moved to Beaufort, SC in his high school years and died there in 2016 - he is considered a leading Southern author of the 20th century w/ a number of his books made into movies - below are just some quotes from the link - if interested, much more to read about. The Prince of Tides w/ Barbara Streisand and Nick Nolte is a favorite of mine - believe that both actors stayed in Beaufort during its filming.

Many movies have been made in and around the Beaufort area - see list below and brief descriptive pic - also an image of Pat Conroy w/ Streisand. Dave :)

P.S. the last pic is from a Beaufort tour site - apparently van tours of the movie industry are available, another miss this time for us - will return for sure!

Donald Patrick "Pat" Conroy (October 26, 1945 – March 4, 2016) was an American author who wrote several acclaimed novels and memoirs. Two of his novels, The Prince of Tides and The Great Santini, were made into Oscar-nominated films. He is recognized as a leading figure of late-20th century Southern literature. Conroy was a graduate of The Citadel, The Military College of South Carolina and his experiences there provided the basis for two of his best-known works, the novel The Lords of Discipline and the memoir My Losing Season.

After graduating, Conroy taught English in Beaufort, South Carolina; while there he met and married Barbara Jones, a young widow of the Vietnam War. He then accepted a job teaching children in a one-room schoolhouse on remote Daufuskie Island, South Carolina. Conroy was fired for his unconventional teaching practices, including his refusal to use corporal punishment on students. He later wrote The Water Is Wide based on his experiences as a teacher. The book won Conroy a humanitarian award from the National Education Association. It was also made into a feature film, Conrack, starring Jon Voight in 1974. In 1976, Conroy published his first novel, The Great Santini. The main character of the novel is Marine fighter pilot Colonel "Bull" Meecham, who dominates and terrorizes his family. Bull Meecham also psychologically abuses his teenage son Ben. The character is based on Conroy's father Donald.

The Great Santini (1979) - Robert Duvall, Blythe Danner
The Big Chill (1983) - Tom Berenger, Glenn Close, Kevin Kline,William Hurt, Jeff Goldblum
The Prince of Tides (1991) - Nick Nolte, Barbra Streisand, BlytheDanner, Kate Nelligan
Daughters of the Dust (1992) - Cora Lee Day, Alva Rogers
A Perfect World (1993) - Kevin Costner, Clint Eastwood, Laura Dern
Forrest Gump (1994) - Tom Hanks, Robin Wright (Penn), Sally Field, Gary Sinise
The War (1994) - Kevin Costner, Elijah Wood, Mare Winningham
The Jungle Book (1994) - Jason Scott Lee, Sam Neill, John Cleese
Chasers (1994) - Tom Berenger, Gary Busey, Marilu, Henner, Dennis Hopper
Something to Talk About (1995) - Julia Roberts, Dennis Quaid, Robert Duvall, Kyra Sedgwick
White Squall (1996) - Jeff Bridges, Caroline Goodall, John Savage
Last Dance (1996) - Sharon Stone, Rob Morrow, Randy Quaid, Peter Gallagher
Gone Fishin’ (1997) - Joe Pesci, Danny Glover, Rosanna Arquette, Willie Nelson
G.I. Jane (1997) - Demi Moore, Viggo Mortensen, Anne Bancroft
Animals (1997) - Linnea Quigley, Cat Eberwin, William DeFalco
Forces of Nature (1998) - Sandra Bullock, Ben Affleck, Maura Tierney, Blythe Danner
Rules of Engagement (2000) - Tommy Lee Jones, Samuel L. Jackson, Ben Kingsley
Legend of Bagger Vance (2000) - Will Smith, Matt Damon, Charlize Theron
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Beaufort Restaurants - Great Seafood!

Well, we had three excellent dinners, a lunch, and oysters daily! For those who may be traveling around Beaufort, SC, then these three can be recommended (although plenty more were on our list - but these were just a few blocks from the Beaufort Inn and two on the waterfront: Saltus River Grill, Emily's Restaurant & Tapas Bar, and Plums - the first night at the Saltus River Grill - started out w/ local oysters from Lady's Island (see map in first post, if interested), briny and delicious - I had the fresh catch of the day and Susan an excellent shrimp and grits.

Our second night, tried Emily's, just a block from the Beaufort Inn - I had the fresh catch halibut and Susan three tapas dishes - skipped dessert and went back to the Saltus Grill for another dozen Lady Island oysters on the half shell! After our carriage ride, we had lunch @ Plums and shared a shellfish tower, oysters & shrimp - our final dinner was a return to the Saltus Grill - we again started w/ local oysters, this time from St. Helena Island, which is on the way to Hunting Island - I had sushi which was outstanding!

SO, if visiting the area a lover of seafood, then will not be disappointed. Dave :)
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Santa Elena - First European Capital Town in North America - Established in 1566!

Before leaving Beaufort for Kiawah Island, we stopped at the Santa Elena Foundation, a converted Federal Courthouse (first pics below) - over the centuries, the Beaufort-Port Royal area was controlled by many countries, represented by the flags outside the building. In 1494 the Treaty of Tordesillas gave Spain virtually most of the Americas (see map w/ boundary line - rather poor geographers at the time), including the North American eastern seaboard from Florida to Newfoundland - the area was called La Florida, and the first governor was Pedo Menendez de Aviles - from 1566 to 1587, Santa Elena was the first capital of La Florida (see quotes below from link).

Menendez had eliminated the French from Fort Caroline (near Jacksonville, FL which we have visited) and establish Santa Elena on the southern tip of Parris Island (where the golf course is located - see maps, excavation location, and proposed drawing of its appearance) - the town lasted 20+ years and then the capital was changed to St. Augustine in Florida (USA). Remember that the English attempted a colony on Roanoke Island in 1585 which failed quickly - there first permanent settlements were Jamestown (1607) in Virginia and Plymouth (1620) in Massachusetts. The Santa Elena History Site opens up much early Spanish settlement in eastern North America and is highly recommended. Dave :)

P.S. in honor of the 450th anniversary of Santa Elena in 2016, a Spanish built replica of a ship of the early 16th century entered Port Royal and was on display (last pic).

Santa Elena, a Spanish settlement on what is now Parris Island, South Carolina, was the capital of Spanish Florida from 1566 to 1587. It was established under Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, the first governor of Spanish Florida. There had been a number of earlier attempts to establish colonies in the area by both the Spanish and the French, who had been inspired by earlier accounts of the plentiful land of Chicora. Menéndez's Santa Elena settlement was intended as the new capital of the Spanish colony of La Florida, shifting the focus of Spanish colonial efforts north from St. Augustine, which had been established in 1565 to oust the French from their colony of Fort Caroline. Santa Elena was ultimately built at the site of the abandoned French outpost of Charlesfort, founded in 1562 by Jean Ribault.

Santa Elena followed the destruction of the French Fort Caroline by Menéndez in 1565. The settlement housed a large community, and became the base of operations for the Jesuits and military working in the northern zone of Spanish Florida. From this base the Spanish founded a number of other ephemeral forts as far inland as the Appalachian Mountains, but resistance from local Native American tribes and the lack of interest of Spain in the area, caused these to be abandoned, relocated or destroyed. Santa Elena was ultimately abandoned in 1587, with its survivors relocating to St. Augustine. The Spanish never pressed their colonial claims to the area again, focusing on other areas of the American continent.
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Battle of Port Royal - American Civil War - November 1861

Port Royal and the Beaufort area were important in both the Revolutionary War and during the Civil War. Port Royal Sound is after New York the deepest harbor along the Atlantic seaboard and important for naval operations. The Battle of Port Royal occurred in early November 1861 (just 8 months after Ft. Sumter) - under the Union command of Samuel Du Pont, the Union fleet captured Port Royal and Beaufort, which served as the southern command for the Union naval blockade for the remainder of the war - Beaufort remained intact because the citizens abandoned the town - known as the Great Beaufort Skedaddle - see quotes below and links; also a few pics, BUT the video is just 10 mins and worth a watch for those interested (based on the one we saw at the Parris Island Museum). Dave :)


The Battle of Port Royal was one of the earliest amphibious operations of the American Civil War, in which a United States Navy fleet and United States Army expeditionary force captured Port Royal Sound, South Carolina, between Savannah, Georgia and Charleston, South Carolina, on November 7, 1861. The sound was guarded by two forts on opposite sides of the entrance, Fort Walker on Hilton Head Island to the south and Fort Beauregard on Phillip's Islandto the north. A small force of four gunboats supported the forts, but did not materially affect the battle. The attacking force assembled outside of the sound beginning on November 3 after being battered by a storm during their journey down the coast. Because of losses in the storm, the army was not able to land, so the battle was reduced to a contest between ship-based guns and those on shore.

The fleet moved to the attack on November 7, after more delays caused by the weather during which additional troops were brought into Fort Walker. Flag Officer Du Pont ordered his ships to keep moving in an elliptical path, bombarding Fort Walker on one leg and Fort Beauregard on the other; the tactic had recently been used effectively at the Battle of Hatteras Inlet. His plan soon broke down, however, and most ships took enfilading positions that exploited a weakness in Fort Walker. The Confederate gunboats put in a token appearance, but fled up a nearby creek when challenged. Early in the afternoon, most of the guns in the fort were out of action, and the soldiers manning them fled to the rear. A landing party from the flagship took possession of the fort.
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