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Replaced Glass - Only get a display if pressing on certain point while turning on

This is a discussion on Replaced Glass - Only get a display if pressing on certain point while turning on within the iPad 2 Forum forums, part of the Apple iPad Discussions category; Its a very, very long story but I was given "new glass" and a cracked ipad2 by my step daughter. My task, replace the glass. ...

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  1. #1
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    Replaced Glass - Only get a display if pressing on certain point while turning on

    Its a very, very long story but I was given "new glass" and a cracked ipad2 by my step daughter. My task, replace the glass. Plenty of videos out there on doing this - started, got it done, but the sucker, I though, would not turn on. Plug it in, its still working fine just no display.

    After reseating everything several times I could get a clear display if I happen to have my thumb depressed about half way up on the right side, about 3/4" inch in from the edge. It wouldn't last long - and it had to be turned on while my finger was depressed at this location.

    Seems like the LCD is fine and the backlight is fine - what I'm wondering is if the glass I got was not so fine.

    Quick backup: i don't know any history of where this new glass and frame came from - I suspect someone on craigs's list (as this is where her dad usually buys things). I know that the frame that it was in had several broken retainer clips so it might have been from another dead ipad2 - I simply don't know.

    I got the copper strip moved over, removed any extra foam padding - everything seems to fit nice and tight.

    I have turned the unit off and back on (read somewhere that sometimes replacing things requires a power-down).

    My questions are:

    - I'm leaning toward the new glass being not so new and possibly damaged
    - Is there any other diags I could do (holding my finger on that one spot)?

    Thanks,

    Brian - ipad step-dad

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  3. #2
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    Actually, it sounds like a loose connection or perhaps a poor solder joint. Whatever it is, it is probably close to the place where you are pressing on the glass.

  4. #3
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    Thanks. Its right over the connector for the LCD.

    I'll take a closer look

  5. #4
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    Good luck. Please let us know how it works out.

  6. #5
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    I'll be attempting it tonight - given I get a clear display when I press and turn on, I'm hoping its in that connector right there

    wish me luck!

  7. #6
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    Good luck.

  8. #7
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    See the below image. If I'm careful I can hold everything 'in place' and the screen turns on and
    displays correctly.


    Replaced Glass - Only get a display if pressing on certain point while turning on-imag1357.jpg

    It looks like just the two solders at the end (which appear to be for grounding but also perhaps to hold
    the connector in place) are loose.

    I have a soldering iron and have done PCB soldering before - but on a larger size board... Could I attempt to solder this
    top piece back down??

    This is from the other side:

    Replaced Glass - Only get a display if pressing on certain point while turning on-imag1356.jpg

    I have a few more but I'd have to resize them (1M limit here it seems...)

  9. #8
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    I don't see that you have a lot to lose by trying. You can't really leave it that way and expect to have a usable iPad.

    The main think is that you'll want to keep the heat to the minimum. This is how I would do it, based on my limited experience with heat sensitive components.

    Use something to weigh the piece down into place. Using a fairly small solder diameter, place the solder on the joint, then place the soldering iron on top of the solder. Lift it as soon as the solder flows together top and bottom. Let it cool down before doing the other joint.

    The main thing is to avoid an accumulation of heat. I don't know if this component is heat sensitive, but no need to take chances.

    At least you found a visible problem. So often it's difficult or impossible to see what's wrong.

    Good luck, again.

  10. #9
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    No luck ;-( Ordered new LCD and cable - live and learn....

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    Using flux is critical if you wish to solder that down without burning things up.
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